Tag Archives: dressage for gaited horses

Long and Low to Break Pace

Break pace with long and low

Do you have a tense, anxious and pacey gaited horse? You are not alone. I did too. Here’s what’s worked for me to find relaxation and break pace for a smooth gait. Find relaxation and break pace with long and low, plus these tips and videos.

Long and Low to Break Pace and Improve Smooth Gait

By Jennifer Klitzke

Have you ever asked, “How do I help my gaited horse break pace for a smooth gait?” You’re not alone. I asked this question back in 2007 when I bought my first Tennessee walking horse, Makana. She was just turning three years old with a few rides on her. I thought naturally gaited horses were born to be smooth. Yes, they are. However, I quickly learned that it was up to me to help my horse develop her smooth gaits with consistent training.

I set out to find resources for smooth gaited horse training. I purchased and studied gaited horse videos and books where I learned that many people ride their gaited horses using curb bits two handed with contact. This approach was new to me. As an avid dressage rider since 1988, I was familiar with riding two handed with contact using a gentle snaffle bit. A curb bit was only added to the snaffle bit (bradoon) at Third Level and beyond, but not used predominantly with contact.

I also attended naturally gaited horse clinics and took lessons with local instructors where I was taught to ride with low fixed hands. This was also a new concept for me. As a dressage rider, I had learned to follow the natural head and neck motion of the horse with the snaffle bit contact. I thought, “Wouldn’t it be the same for the head nodding gaited horse?”

It seems pace is a common theme among gaited horse owners—especially for those, like me, who own Tennessee walking horses.

Ingredients of pace

Pictured below, is me and my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana, early in our training. As you can see, we struggled with pace. Does she look relaxed: her expression, her body, her mouth? Notice the spurs and riding two handed with low, fixed hands using a curb bit.

pace riding two handed with curb contact

Relaxation leads to smooth gait, yes. Just where do you begin to unravel the elements of this quandary and begin the journey to a relaxed smooth gait?

How to Break Pace for a Smooth Gait

Makana has had a consistent smooth gait for years now. Helping her find relaxation in her body and mind is key to break pace. This begins even before I start riding long and low.

Steps to relaxation

First of all, I stopped using equipment that cause tension. No more spurs, snug nose bands, and riding with curb bits two handed with contact. I maintained regular hoof trims at natural angles, double checked my saddle fit for comfort, and had the vet out annually to check teeth and floated as needed.

Developing a language of communication

To relax my horse’s mind, I had to become aware of what created anxiety and worry to help my horse find relaxation. Here, we embarked on a journey to develop a dialogue of harmonious two-way communication using dressage for the gaited horse.

Watch: Introducing Contact In Hand and In Saddle

I began by teaching my horse how to acceptance and follow a mild snaffle bit contact starting with work in hand. Then the same exercises from the saddle at a halt, and then at a slow walk. We only progressed tempo as long as she was relaxed in her mind and body. If she became tense or worried, we would slow down or halt until she was relaxed again.

When we progressed in tempo to a free walk on a long rein. I had to learn how to follow her natural head and neck movement with relaxed arms shoulders and hip joints.

Becoming a relaxed and confident rider

Most important, I needed to face my fears and learn how to become a relaxed and confident rider in order to convey relaxation and confidence to my horse. If my horse is nervous and I react in nervousness, it only reinforces her worry. I need to become the relaxed leader of our relationship. This takes time. For me, this has been a work in progress. Because of intentionally working at it, I am a more relaxed and confident rider, and it has paid off in my relationship with Makana.

Long and low for relaxation

Gaited horse experts talk about the importance of lowering the horse’s head and neck to aid in relaxation. Why? Because relaxation is a key component for smooth gait.

In dressage terms, a long and low dog walk with contact is referred to a free walk on a long rein. This is a required movement in all dressage tests—Introductory through Olympic Levels. The free walk on a long rein shows the rider and horse in a posture of relaxation during the test. The riding team leaves the arena at a free walk on a loose rein.

Naturally gaited horse free walk on a long rein or long and low
Free walk on a long rein

Long and low or free walk on a long rein is only one of many positions a horse is trained at to develop full range of motion.

In a dressage test, the free walk is graded on a scale from 0 to 10. The latter score means a perfect free walk. In a quality free walk on a long rein, the horse is shown in a state of relaxation. The horse is ridden in an approved snaffle bit and stretches forward, down, and out while taking equally timed steps with over track. This means the hind leg hoofprint steps over the fore hoofprint as it leaves the ground. The more over track the horse offers is considered a quality walk. For maximum stride length, it is important to move the horse forward without rushing in a regular rhythm and tempo.

This quality position allows the horse to stretch through the back and neck to a seeking contact with the bit. The horse’s nose is ahead of the vertical. The back is in a neutral position, and the horse’s chest is up and not collapsed. Most dressage tests show the free walk on a long rein along a straight line across the diagonal. This challenges how well the horse remains between the rider’s leg and rein aids. This symmetry is also scored.

The rider maintains a light contact with the snaffle bit and follows the horse’s natural head and neck motion with relaxed shoulders and arms. The rider also follows the horse’s side to side belly sway with relaxed hip joints and a balanced and aligned (ear, hip and heel) riding position. The rider’s relaxation aids the horse’s relaxation.

Video: Free Walk on a Long Rein

The free walk on a long rein is a terrific way to begin and end every ride, as well as reward your horse throughout a training session.

Long and Low to Steps of Smooth Gait

As my horse develops a consistent free walk on a long rein, then I begin asking her for a few steps of flat walk or smooth gait. I stop and reward my horse before my horse begins to pace or trot or feel like a rough ride. Then we return to a relaxed walk and ask for the smooth gait again.

After a few smooth steps of gait, I halt and reward my horse. Over time, a few good steps of smooth gait lead to a circle and then a few minutes of smooth gait.

Why lower is not better

I used to believe that the lower the horse’s head and neck are stretched to the ground the better. Many gaited horse experts claim this is true in order to develop a smooth gait. I gave this a try for a couple years. It helped my horse become smoother; however, my horse developed the habit of traveling on the forehand. This became a new habit that has been hard to break. Plus, being on the forehand compounded the tripping.

In hindsight, why train long and low as low as you can go when long and low at a neutral position also breaks pace?

Consider balance when training long and low to break pace

Balance is an important concept in dressage. I began to study the science of biomechanics and balance, and the importance of engaging the thoracic sling (chest and shoulder muscles) from Dr. Hilary Clayton’s research and French dressage master Philippe Karl’s book: Misconceptions of Modern Dressage.

Clayton and Karl are dressage and biomechanics experts. Their writings helped me realize the struggles I was having with my gaited horse being on the forehand and when my Trakehner/Thoroughbred were moving into Second Level. Prolonged long and low trains the horse to travel on the forehand.

Moments of long and low are good, not miles. Long and low stretching is good, but lower is not better.

Here’s why. The horse’s head and neck weigh up to one tenth of its body weight and when propelled ahead of the horse’s legs naturally places the horse on the forehand.

Adding to this, when the horse’s poll (between the ears) is lower than the height of the wither, the horse collapses the shoulder and chest muscles. Training a horse in this unbalanced position means conditioning the horse on the forehand with undeveloped chest and shoulder muscles. Then when you want to teach collection, you have to retrain your horse to develop the chest and shoulder muscles and break the habit of leaning on the bit and traveling onto the forehand.

Long and low to riding in balance is like breaking the habit of slouching with good posture. Not easy to do.

Long and low out of balance

Long and low on the forehand

Pictured above is my naturally gaited fox-trotting horse, Lady, in a long and low position. Notice that she is disengaged from behind (not stepping under the rider’s position with her hind leg). Notice that her chest muscles are collapsed, and her abdominal muscles are not lifting her back to a neutral position. She may be relaxed, but she is not effectively developing her top line muscles in this position. She is traveling on the forehand, and behind the bit.

Long and low in balance

Gaited horse fox trot on a long rein

Pictured above is my naturally gaited horse, Lady, in a neutral balanced position on a long rein. This is called a neck extension. She is traveling in a relaxed smooth gait and stepping more under her body than disengaging behind her tail. Can you see the difference in balanced compared with the other photo?

Watch: Action Reaction to Neck Extension

Steps to cue the neck extension

Benefits of a free walk on a long rein from a balanced position

A free walk on a long rein from a balanced position produces many terrific benefits for the gaited horse including rhythm, relaxation, forward movement without rushing, and depth of stride to increase stride length, stretching the spine, and building the top line muscles.

Most importantly, a free walk on a long rein from a balanced position puts the gaited horse into a relaxed position that helps break up the foot falls of pace into four individual steps—the sequence of a four-beat smooth gait at a slower tempo. From this quality walk, ask for a few steps of smooth gait. Stop and reward your horse. Then repeat.

How to teach the horse to lower its head

If your horse is just beginning to learn the basics with a snaffle bit and needs to start by lower its head and neck, here’s an exercise I learned from naturally gaited clinician, Bucky Sparks, which he calls “Stretch the Bit.” This exercise teaches a horse to discover relaxation by lowering its head and neck on cue at a halt. Once a horse discovers relaxation, they are more likely to seek it the next time you cue for it.

1. Begin this exercise at a halt. If the horse’s head is too high, lift your hands up and out to each side. This position touches the less sensitive corners of the horse’s lips. As I draw my arms out to the side, I feel a pull in my triceps which helps me to remember not to pull back.

IMPORTANT: Don’t pulling back or apply low fixed hands that press the bit into the horse’s tongue and causes pain. Pain causes tension in the mouth and lower jaw.

Stretch the bit with Lady
When your horse’s head is too high, position your reins up and out to each side without pulling back. Begin this exercise at a halt.

2. Release to reward: As soon as your horse begins dropping the head and neck, release the reins.

Release and reward with Lady

3. Repeat the exercise: Don’t get discouraged if it takes a couple minutes before the horse lowers its head or if the horse lowers and then pops its head back up. This is a common reaction when introducing something new to the horse as well as for horses who are tense or resistant. After a few tries, most horses discover relaxation and prefer it over tension and hollowness because it is more comfortable. Eventually the horse learns to remain in a lowered headset for longer periods of time.

4. Stretch and release at a walk: When the horse gets consistent with this exercise at a halt, you can begin stretching the bit at a walk on a large 20-meter circle. My horse found relaxation quicker on an arc of a circle than traveling on a straight line.

5. Add transitions and changes of direction: After a few circles, repeat the exercise traveling in the opposite direction. Switch directions every 3 or 4 circles. Then add some walk-halt-walk transitions to keep it interesting and “stretch the bit” and “release to reward” at a halt before transitioning to a walk. The transitions also help to improve the horse’s balance.

Watch: Stretch the Bit and Release and Reward

Notice that when the horse lowers, its head and neck are at the wither height.

Neck extension or free walk on a long rein is only a portion of my riding sessions as a warmup, break time and cool down.

As my horse advances in its training, I like to replace the “stretch the bit” with a more traditional dressage application I call “squeeze and release.”

How to Squeeze and Release to Lower the Head and Neck

1. Squeeze and release with the rein: On a 20-meter circle at a walk, I gently squeeze the inside rein with my fingers and hold my fingers closed until my horse gives. Then I immediately release the inside rein by opening my middle, ring and pinky fingers to reward the horse. I don’t drop the rein. I maintain a light contact with my thumb and index fingers. Each time the horse’s head pops up, I’ll repeat the “squeeze and release.”

2. Application of the inside calf after the squeeze and release: Once the horse is relaxed and understands this concept, I will touch and release my inside calf at the girth as my horse steps its inside hind leg forward. This encourages my horse to step deeper under its body with its inside hind leg. The timing of this cue is important.

Also, it is important to separate the timing of my hand and leg aids. I like to apply the leg aid after I release my hand aid. Combining my hand and leg aids is like driving a car with my foot on the break and gas pedal at the same time. This is confusing to the horse. Separating the timing of my hand and leg aids (even by milliseconds) produce clarity for my horse and leads to lightness of aids.

4. Inside leg to outside rein: Then I capture the forward energy into an ounce of contact with the outside indirect rein which I place lightly against my horse’s neck. The inside leg to outside indirect rein combined with the softening inside rein helps keep my horse in a consistent long and low frame on a 20-meter circle.

Watch: Squeeze and Release to Lower the Head and Neck

When my horse is consistent in the neutral frame (poll no lower than the height of the wither), I ask for a few deeper, more ground covering steps and more forwardness without rushing from the hind quarters to begin the free walk on a long rein.

How to improve long and low or free walk on a long rein

1. Awareness: Improving the free walk on a long rein begins by becoming aware of how the free walk feels and looks when it is moving well and when it needs improvement. Finding a riding coach who can provide timely feedback is a great way to learn this “feel.” This takes time, patience and consistent training, but the free walk offers such wonderful benefits to the horse. A balanced and engaged free walk teaches the horse to maintain a consistent relaxed tempo, maximum length and stride depth, even four-beat rhythm, and an extended head and neck position: all of which helps to develop the top line muscles.

2. Cueing deeper and longer strides: While traveling at a relaxed land neutral walk, the timing of my cue is critical. I press and release my right calf at the girth as the horse steps forward with its right hind leg (or as I feel the horse’s belly dip down on the right side). Then I apply and release my left calf as the horse steps forward with its left hind leg (or as I feel the horse’s belly dip down on the left). The application of my calf should encourage a deeper step beneath the body.

IMPORTANT: Don’t cue every step or the horse will begin to ignore the cues. I stop cueing as soon as my horse increases its depth of stride. Then I follow the motion of the belly sway with each relaxed hip joint. I don’t push my pelvis forward to drive my horse. I only follow the horse’s motion. To lengthen the stride, it is important not to use both leg aids at the same time since this shortens the stride.

If the horse ignores my calf aid, I will follow up a calf aid with a tap of a dressage whip applied to the same side I applied my calf to activate that hind leg while it is stepping forward. Timing is key.

Another way to encourage more energy and deeper strides in the free walk is to make a cluck sound as the hind leg steps forward. As soon as the horse increases the energy and depth of stride, stop the sound. If you show gaited dressage, using voice as a training aid will not be an option since the use of voice is not allowed during a test.

3. Following the movement with the seat: After cueing my horse for deeper strides, I follow my horse’s forward movement with each hip joint as each hind leg steps beneath under the belly. I become aware of the feeling of the horse’s rib cage lift on one side and lower on the other.  I keep my body still from the core but not stiff, tense or locked in the joints.

IMPORTANT: Follow not drive: There is a difference between following the motion a horse produces with relaxed hip joints and driving the horse forward with the pelvis. I have found that driving a horse forward with the pelvis is annoying to the horse. It tends to create extra noise and irritation to the horse’s back. I like to teach the horse to be light to the leg and hand instead of driving the horse forward with my pelvis.

4. Circles and straight lines: I like to teach my horses the free walk on a large circle versus a straight line along the rail. This way the horse learns to listen to my aids instead of following along the rail.

Once the horse is consistent on a 20-meter circle in both directions, I will add serpentines, figure eights, and moments of straight lines. If the horse’s head pops up, gets tense, hollow and pacey, I’ll return to the arc of a circle. Over time, the horse will learn to travel in straight lines across the diagonal in a free walk on a long rein. This is a required movement in all dressage tests.

Developing straightness for symmetry

Another benefit of riding circles versus straight lines is the outer muscles are stretching, and the horse extends the outside legs more because the outside legs are traveling on a larger circle than the inside legs. All horses tend to be stiffer on one side more than the other. Circles help the horse become more evenly flexible. This symmetry is referred to as straightness. Straightness in dressage does not mean riding in straight lines, rather developing the horse to become ambidextrous which is best done in a curved position.

Remember, after the horse is in balance at a walk, then lengthen the reins and release the horse to a neutral position. Keep the horse’s poll no lower than the wither height to help preserve the horse’s balance. And ride your horse like playing an accordion with lots of transitions to develop the full range of motion for quality smooth gaits.

2021: My naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana. We are riding bareback in her smooth gait, an even four-beat flat walk riding in balance and relaxation.

Dressage for the gaited horse breaks pace and teaches relaxation and balance

Today I train my gaited horses in a position of balance and relaxation from the start using dressage.

Dressage for the gaited horse develops the horse’s full range of motion and quality smooth gaits on cue for long-term soundness.

why dressage for the gaited horse
2022: Makana, my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, at 18 years old.

Dressage benefits the gaited horse:

  • Relaxation of the mind allows for a more teachable horse. Relaxation of the mind means less anxiety and tension. Relaxation of the mind helps build a partnership of harmony between the horse and rider to promote trust. A relaxed horse is more attentive to the rider and less focused on distractions. This reduces the risk of spooking.
  • Relaxation of the body allows for a more trainable horse. Relaxation of the body transforms tense muscles, a hollow posture, and pace into more flexible and maneuverable movement and smoother gaits. Relaxation of the body includes expression of the mouth, flexibility of the lower jaw and poll, stretching and flexibility of body muscles, a maneuverable posture, and lifting the chest and back. Relaxation of the body promotes smoother gaits—less pace, step pace, hard trot, and lateral canter.
  • Stretching the spine and building the top line muscles increase the depth of stride and the length of stride.
  • Developing symmetry through gymnastic exercises to help the horse become ambidextrous. These exercises promote balance, strength and flexibility traveling clockwise or counterclockwise for evenness of stride, length of stride, and depth of stride.
  • Lateral exercises break up the pace and step pace for more even smooth, four beat gaits.
  • Dressage develops the full range of motion, quality smooth gaits on cue and long-term soundness.

Our dressage program

I help my horses find balance at a halt and relaxation in the mouth, lower jaw and poll. Then instead of long and low (as low as I can go), I release to the neck extension to stretch the spine and top line muscles and flexions side to side. This stretches the neck muscles of the horse.

I do not ride my gaited horse in a free walk or neck extension the entire session. I ride my gaited horses like playing an accordion. The accordion stretches out and shortens to make high and low notes for a song. Similarly, I like to develop my horse’s full range of motion with big strides to develop the lengthening muscles and small collected steps to develop the carrying muscles.

We begin riding a free walk on a long rein to warm up and stretch the muscles. Next, we transition between lateral exercises at a slow deliberate walk with small steps (balance, strength and suppling) to a forward without rushing neck extension at a flat walk (lengthening muscles) for a couple minutes.

Our balancing exercises include the shoulder in, haunches in, shoulder out, renver, rein back, counter bend turns, counted walk, and half steps. Then we enjoy flat walk, fox trot, and/or canter exercises, and end with free walk on a loose rein as a cool down. This method makes transitions from Intro Level to Training Level to First Level to Second Level much more seamless.

Dressage with my naturally gaited horses is not only fun, but it has also created a great bond with each horse. Best of all, this method of training breaks pace and hard trot. I enjoy quality smooth gaits with all three of my naturally gaited horses.

Learn more: Dressage for the Gaited Horse


I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.

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Introducing a Gaited Horse to a Snaffle Bit

Introducing a gaited horse to a snaffle bit

Teaching the naturally gaited horse to relax the mouth, lower jaw, and poll can relax the body to perform smooth gaits. Learn the benefits of using a snaffle bit and how to begin.

Introducing a Gaited Horse to a Snaffle Bit

By Jennifer Klitzke

Depending upon which training method you choose with your gaited horse will determine how you communicate with your horse, which tools are used, how the tools are used, and why.

Dressage is my method of choice in training my gaited horses―specifically classical French dressage. In dressage, the rider communicates with the horse through the hand, leg, seat, and weight aids. The rider’s fingers gently communicate with the horse’s mouth in a meaningful way through the reins attached to a gentle snaffle bit. The horse learns to seek and follow a light contact with the bit, and the rider gains awareness to gently follow the horse’s natural head and neck motion with relaxed shoulders, arms, and fingers. This light contact between the rider’s fingers and the horse’s mouth is important for communication.

Introducing a gaited horse to a snaffle bit helps the horse learn to seek and accept a light contact leading to smooth gait. When bits are misused, horse learn to resist contact out of fear, pain, or tension. This leads to pace, step pace, hard trot, and even running off.

In this post, we will explore:

  • Selecting a snaffle bit for the gaited horse
  • Introducing the bit and working in hand
  • Benefits of teaching a gaited horse to accept and follow a snaffle bit contact
  • Demonstration videos

Selecting a snaffle bit for the gaited horse

Snaffle bits and curb bits (or shank bits) have different actions on the horse. Snaffle bits do not have curb levers creating poll pressure. In dressage, snaffles are designed for the rider to communicate with the horse through a light contact leading to bit acceptance.

Over the years, I have collected many snaffle bits. Snaffles are made of rubber, plastic, and a variety of different tasting metals. There are one-piece (Mullen) bits, single-joint and double-joint snaffles. Some double-joint snaffles have a lozenge, a link, or roller. (Use caution when selecting links and rollers as some can pinch the horse’s tongue and cause pain.)

Below are snaffle bits I have used to train my naturally smooth gaited horses.

EquiKind Mullen Full Cheek Snaffle Bit
Plastic Mullen Full Cheek Snaffle Bit

Full Cheek Mullen Snaffle Bit

A full-cheek snaffle bit is a great choice for young, green horses who are wiggly as they learn, like my three-year-old naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Marvel. This will be our go-to bit for his first year of training.

The full-cheek pieces offer stability to keep the bit from sliding through the horse’s mouth while they learn how to accept and follow contact. A plastic Mullen snaffle bit is great for horses with a sensitive mouth and horses who dislike the taste of metal.

fulmer full cheek snaffle
Fulmer single-joint snaffle

Fulmer Snaffle Bit

The Fulmer snaffle is one of my favorites for training gaited horses using dressage. The rings are independent from the full cheek pieces and allow greater communication with the horse and rider through the various lateral dressage exercises. The Fulmer snaffle is also available with a double joint.

loose ring snaffle
Loose-ring snaffle with lozenge.

Loose Ring Snaffle Bit

After the horse is established in following contact, many dressage riders change to a loose ring snaffle. There are other ring styles as well, such as the D-ring and egg-butt snaffle bits. Many riders start out with a D-ring or an egg-butt. However, the full-cheek and Fulmer snaffles offer the best protection from the bit sliding through the horse’s mouth.

In all cases with snaffle bits, the reins are attached to the rings.

Baucher snaffle bit with lozenge

Baucher Snaffle Bit

The Baucher snaffle bit is available in a variety of mouth pieces: Mullen, single-joint, French link, with a lozenge, and of various metals or plastic. Many people believe that this bit offers poll pressure. However, according to bit expert, Charmae Bell of BitBank Australia, Baucher snaffle bits actually relieve poll pressure. Her BitBank Australia YouTube channel is a terrific resource to learn about bits and bit action.

Snaffle Bit Size

Five-inch snaffle bits are a common width. I have many five-inch snaffle bits, a few five-and-a-half inch snaffles I used with my late 16-2 H Trakehner/Thoroughbred and four-and-a-half-inch snaffles I used with my late 14-1 H Arabian. Select a size large enough not to pinch the corners of the horse’s mouth.

Is a Single-Joint Snaffle Bit Abusive?

Some people believe all single-joint snaffles are abusive, because they have been told single-joint snaffles have a nutcracker effect in the horse’s mouth. I have ridden with a variety of FEI dressage legal snaffle bits since 1988 including single-joint snaffles. In my opinion, any bit can be abusive to the horse when used incorrectly, when not properly fitted, or when the wrong snaffle is selected for the horse’s training.

A single-joint snaffle isn’t for every horse. Horses have preferences and differing mouth conformations and sensitivities where a double joint or Mullen may be more suitable or comfortable. As horses progress in their training, bits are often changed. Some horses have been mishandled and have become defensive. These horses will need a gentle snaffle bit along with an empathetic handler who has patience and educated hands to overcome bit avoidance.

Any bit can be harsh to the horse when used incorrectly or when not properly fitted.

It is important to point out HOW a rider uses a bit, whether single joint, double joint, Mullen, or curb (shank). Many gaited horse riders are taught to hold their hands out to each side in a low, fixed position with contact. Some riders pull back on the reins with both hands. These actions put pressure on the horse’s tongue and cause pain. Pain leads to bit avoidance. Bit avoidance leads to anxiety, tension, pacing, running away, head tossing, getting behind the bit, putting the tongue over the bit, gapping the mouth, and more. This is the opposite of relaxation.

A better way to ride with a snaffle bit is with a light following contact, the elbows at the rider’s sides and the arms bending at the elbows, signaling with the rider’s palms facing up and an upward action. Cueing with an upward action communicates with the corners of the horse’s lips which is a softer and gentler way to communicate. Pulling back on the reins with low hands presses the bit into the tongue which causes discomfort. Bit acceptance occurs when a horse develops a positive and comfortable experience with the bit. Developing bit acceptance takes time, consistent training, awareness of the horse’s body language and our application of our rein aids. Bit acceptance takes patience, especially with a horse that has learned to be defensive. Bit acceptance leads to mental and physical relaxation. That’s what we want in dressage, and that’s what we need for smooth gaits.

Which Snaffle Bit Do You Pick and Why?

Select a comfortable bit that encourages acceptance and relaxation versus pain, anxiety and tension which lead to bit avoidance.

Introducing the bridle
Here’s Marvel, my three-year-old Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse getting acquainted with a Mullen full-cheek snaffle bit.

I am blessed to have another opportunity to start a young, gaited horse, thanks to my friend Mary. Marvel is an unstarted, three-year-old Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse. He is a clean slate, so starting him with a comfortable bit and teaching him bit acceptance will go a long way.

I have also restarted many horses who have had a negative experience with the bit. It takes time to develop trust with a horse, even more time with a bit resistant horse.

Maybe you can relate:

Have you ever ridden a tense, anxious, and stiff gaited horse who runs off the minute you take up contact with the reins or curls their nose behind the vertical to avoid contact? Can you recall whether the gaits were smooth or rough? Did you experience pace, step pace, a lateral canter or hard trot?

For me, I notice whenever a gaited horse is tense, anxious, and stiff undesirable rough and jarring gaits soon follow. On the flip side, relaxation produces the quality smooth gaits I desire, and that’s what dressage for the gaited horse is all about.

After having a vet inspect the teeth for a float, the next step begins by selecting a well-fitting and gentle snaffle bit.

For Marvel, I am using a plastic Mullen full-cheek snaffle bit. The full-cheek pieces keep the bit from sliding through his mouth while he learns. The plastic Mullen bit is gentle for his sensitive mouth as he learns how to accept and follow contact through stretching exercises. Young horses are wiggly as they learn, and this bit offers stability as I gently guide him through our first year of training until we are well started under saddle.

How to Introduce a Gaited Horse to a Snaffle Bit

Teaching the gaited horse to relax the mouth, lower jaw, and poll can relax the body to perform smooth gaits.

The best way to introduce the gaited horse to the snaffle bit is from the ground by working in hand. This strips away the complexities of the rider’s leg, weight and seat aids so the gaited horse learns how to accept and follow a light snaffle bit contact.

After the horse learns how to accept and follow a light snaffle bit contact with work in hand from the ground then the same exercises can be taught from saddle at a halt. Then the horse is moved into a slow walk and a slow gait over time. Each progression of tempo adds more complexity. This is why beginning with work in hand from the ground is the simplest way to start teaching the horse how to accept and follow a snaffle bit contact. Any time the horse gets tense, the rider backs down to a halt to re-establish relaxation and begin again. As the horse and riding advance in training, relaxation can be applied in motion.

Benefits of Introducing a Snaffle Bit to the Horse from the Ground with Work in Hand

  • Educates the rider’s hands and the horse’s mouth:
    • Educates the rider to teach the gaited horse how to seek and follow a light, steady, even contact with the snaffle bit
    • Teaches the horse to taste the snaffle bit and swallow which aids in relaxation of the mouth, lower jaw, and poll
    • Brings awareness to the rider about the importance of helping the horse relax the mouth, lower jaw, and poll
  • Teaches the rider how to help the horse find balance and not lean on the rider’s hands to develop lightness to the hand:
    • A light contact is the goal; The rider doesn’t pull on the bit and the horse doesn’t lean on the bit
    • Any time the horse leans on the bit, the rider immediately applies a demi arret (quick motions upward of the bit towards the ears of the horse and releases); Upward motion to apply contact to the corners of the mouth; When the horse stops leaning and carries its own head and neck, the rider stops the demi arret
    • When the horse learns to carry its own head and neck and not lean on the rider’s hands, the horse learns to shift its balance from the forehand towards the hindquarters and raise its whither by engaging the chest and shoulder muscles
balance in hand
Beginning of balance is achieved when the horse is no longer leaning on my hands and is holding up his head and neck on his own.

Neck extension
Neck extension stretches the top line muscles and spine.

  • Stretching exercises teach the horse how to follow the snaffle:
    • The rider learns to hold a light and even contact with both reins and teaches the horse to follow an even, steady contact
    • The rider guides the horse in stretching exercises upward, outwards and to each side at a 45- to 90-degree. This allows the horse to stretch the outside neck muscles while remaining balanced; and teaching the horse to follow the contact to extend its head and neck down and out to stretch the top line muscles and spine. (Ideally the poll (space between he horse’s ears) should be no lower than the height of the whither, so the horse remains in balance)

When the gaited horse understands how to follow contact, the rider can direct the horse into relaxation of the mouth, jaw, and poll. This relaxation is essential in dressage to direct the gaited horse into positions of stretching, flexing the neck and poll, and rebalancing.

After the horse learns these exercises in hand at a halt, the rider can begin to direct the horse in hand at a slow walk. When flexing the head and neck at a 45 to 90-degree angle, the horse’s body remains straight. This exercise is called flechi droit. It teaches the horse lightness, balance, and straightness in the shoulders and prepares the horse for a balanced small circle. This also stretches the outside neck muscles. During these exercises, it is important to slow down and allow the horse to take smaller relaxed steps.

Work in hand
Working in hand at a walk.

After the horse walks straight while bending in the neck, then directed the horse into a neck extension on a small 8-10 meter circle (volte). This in hand exercise helps the horse learn balance, lightness, and straightness as it follows an even, light, steady snaffle bit contact.

Work-in-hand is teaching me how to direct my gaited horse to find balance and accept a light, bit contact. This groundwork will make it easier to train my gaited horse from the saddle. 

Marvel loves his Mullen snaffle bit. Maintaining this enthusiasm will be important going forward until the day we begin saddle training.

Demonstration Videos

Introducing a Gaited Horse to the Bit, Part 1

Introducing a Gaited Horse to the Bit, Part 2

Benefits of Teaching a Gaited Horse to Follow a Snaffle Bit

I learned these Educating the Mouth exercises in 2014 and began applying them with my gaited horses Makana and Lady, and now Marvel.


I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.

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Next Chapter of Quality Smooth Gaits

I was beginning to wonder if I would be retiring with my smooth gaited horses, Lady and Makana when a few unexpected blessings showed up just in the nick of time. Meet the next chapter of quality smooth gaits.

Here’s my story…

Next Chapter of Quality Smooth Gaits

By Jennifer Klitzke

It’s hard to believe that nearly 15 years have gone by in my smooth gaited dressage journey with Makana, my first naturally gaited horse. She arrived as a three-year-old into the first chapters of Naturally Gaited. Then a few years later came Lady, my grade fox trotting mare. Together we explored that “Dressage is more than Trot” in developing quality smooth gaits.

Why dressage for the gaited horse?

Previous to smooth gaited horses, I had 20 years experience as an avid dressage rider with non-gaited horses that trot. I learned how to develop a balanced riding position and communicate through effective use and timing of leg, rein, weight, and seat aids to lead a horse into relaxation, balance, forward movement without rushing, rhythm, connection, straightness, and collection over time. This process improves the horse’s quality of movement and the full range of motion.

If this is true for non-gaited horses that trot, I believed that dressage would also develop the full range of motion and quality smooth gaits as flat walk, fox trot, and saddle rack. For the naturally gaited horse, this means smoother gaits; longer, deeper strides; and a sounder horse for longer.

The first fifteen years of Naturally Gaited proves this hypothesis: Dressage is more than Trot in developing quality smooth gaits.

While still sound and rideable, Makana and Lady have reached their retirement years. I have enjoyed a remarkable dressage journey with both smooth gaited horses, unique in their own way.

bareback flat walk
Makana, Tennessee walking horse, at 17, ridden bareback and barefoot at a flat walk.
Lady, grade fox trotting mare, 18-20, ridden barefoot.

So what’s next for Naturally Gaited, I thought?

I began pleading with my husband to purchase another gaited horse. He kept saying, “No.” The thought of downsizing and retiring were all to compelling to him.

Retiring?

I’m thinking…I’m too young to retire. I’m too young to retire from training horses. I’m too young to retire from Naturally Gaited. I’ve got another quality smooth gaited generation to raise!

Meanwhile, I check out gaited horses for sale. For my first 30 years of equestrianism, finding a good registered training prospect for under $2,500 was common. Today’s prices are astonishing! Grade gaited horses are priced at double that. Registered gaited horses for sale are triple or more!

At the same time, auctions are full of gaited horses. Many are priced under $1,000. If not sold, they join the tens of thousands placed on trailers to Mexico for slaughter. It breaks my heart.

I seriously looked into saving one of these auction horses, but after the cost of the horse, vetting, 4-6 weeks quarantine, and transportation, I’d be looking at thousands to save a horse I never met. A horse of unknown handling, unknown breeding, unknown temperament, unknown age, unknown health, unknown soundness. Too much risk at too high a cost.

Next step, I applied for adoption with a few reputable rescues who take in gaited horses. I was approved, yet so were many others. The young gaited horses were snapped up as soon as they arrived.

Then a dear friend, fellow horse lover, and a follower of Naturally Gaited, contacted me and desired to contribute towards the adoption of a new horse.

I was beginning to wonder if there would be a horse to adopt?

The riding season was quickly coming to a close. The days growing colder and darker. Would there be a next chapter of quality smooth gaits? Would I be forced into retiring with my gaited horses after all?

Then last week my heart stopped. (In a good way.) I saw an ad for an unbroke Tennessee walking horse gelding. I immediately texted for more information.

After a few text exchanges, I went for a visit the next day. His name is Mellum’s Midnight Marvel, and his price was EXACTLY the amount my friend had on her mind to contribute.

Marvel is a friendly fellow, a curious character, and has striking beauty. I like his balance, his uphill build, how he uses himself, and how he moves.

Returning home, I couldn’t get Marvel out of my mind. I envisioned him at my place running with my smooth gaited mares, Lady and Makana. I saw him as the next chapters of Naturally Gaited and of quality smooth gaits made possible through dressage.

I pleaded with my husband ONE MORE TIME, and he finally said, “yes” to one more horse.

Sharing the good news with my friend, she said, “God works in mysterious ways.”

Picking Marvel up the next week, the previous owner said, “This was just meant to be.”

Introducing the next chapter of quality smooth gaits: Marvel

Marvel is a curious character and a friendly fellow.

Don’t panic if your gaited horse trots at liberty. Many do and trot does not ruin their natural smooth gait.

I am humbled with gratitude and thanks for the generous gift from my dear friend that has allowed my naturally gaited journey to continue and for her passion for horses to continue.

Stay tuned as the next chapter of quality smooth gaits unfolds.

What are your thoughts? Please reach out and send me a message or stay connected by subscribing to the Naturally Gaited youtube channel and “like” us on facebook.com/naturallygaited.

Forward Movement without Leg Aids

Forward movement without leg aids
Naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse in forward movement, relaxation, rhythm, balance and contact in the flat walk. Horse is ridden bareback and barefoot.

Do you have a gaited horse that is lazy? I’ve discovered the key to forward movement with my smooth gaited Tennessee walking horse: Stop using my leg aids.

Here’s my story…

Forward Movement without Leg Aids

By Jennifer Klitzke

Forward movement without rushing is a requirement in dressage. Other requirements are relaxation (of mind and body), rhythm (consistent tempo and strides), contact (acceptance of the bit), straightness (developing evenness in both directions), and collection (balance) as you move through the training process with the horse.

Coming from decades of German dressage, I learned to ride my horse forward from the hind quarters, through the body and into a snaffle bit contact. I developed an unconscious habit of driving my horse forward with my legs and seat, clucking and squeezing my calves against the sides of my horse to move forward with each step and into the contact. If that didn’t prompt forward movement, I would add the tap-tap-tap of a dressage whip.

I couldn’t figure out why my horse had less and less forward movement.

I explored saddle fit, my horse’s physical condition, and I even changed horse’s diet. Nothing seemed to get my horse to move forward without my continued prodding. I figured I just had a lazy horse.

The same thing began to happen when I began training my Tennessee walking horse until I stumbled upon a new training approach which helped me realize my error.

Separate the “go” from the “stop” for forward movement

At a classical French dressage clinic, I was introduced to the book Another Horsemanship by the late Jean Claude Racinet, a classical French dressage master who followed the work of Baucher’s second training method. Racinet’s book opened my eyes to a new idea: separating my leg “go” aids from my hand “stop” aids.

By combining my riding aids: driving my horse forward with my legs and seat into a snaffle bit contact, two things happened:

  1. My horse became confused, “Do you mean ‘go’ or ‘stop’? I cannot do both simultaneously.”
  2. When my horse chose to slow down, I developed the habit of becoming the engine that drove my horse forward with each step.

Lightness to the Leg for Forward Movement

From French dressage, I learned that forward movement is the horse’s responsibility not the rider’s. The rider needs to train the horse this responsibility. The rider needs to teach the horse to move forward with ONE squeeze and release of the calves and maintain this forward movement without continued squeezing.

This is how to obtain lightness to the leg for forward movement:
  • First, teach horse what the leg aid means.
  • Important: do not combine the leg aid with rein action.
  • Second, immediately cease using leg aids when the horse moves forward.
  • Third, be consistent in the application to train the horse to maintain lightness to the leg without prodding the horse along with each step.

Looking back, I realize that I didn’t have lazy horses. I had either confused my horses by combining my “stop” and “go” aids or dulled my horses to my leg aids with my continued squeezing with each step.

Riding with awareness to develop forward movement

Combining my stop and go aids had become an unconscious habit, so did driving my horse forward with each step.

As soon as I changed my training method to be responsive to the first leg cue without combining my go and stop aids, my horse maintained forward movement without continued leg aids with each step.

The concept of obtaining forwardness without leg aids works for someone like me who has gotten into the habit of squeezing with each step. Now I am riding with more intentionality and awareness of cause and effect, which I believe will replace those unconscious bad habits over time.

Forward movement is possible without leg aids. The calves have a place, just not with EVERY step the horse takes.

flat walk bareback loose rein
Naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse moving in forwardness, relaxation, and rhythm in the flat walk. Horse is ridden bareback, barefoot, and on a loose rein.

Let me know your thoughts by sending me a message. Stay connected by subscribing to the Naturally Gaited youtube channel and “like” us on facebook.com/naturallygaited.

Second Thoughts About Long And Low

Second Thoughts about Long and Low for the Naturally Gaited Horse

By Jennifer Klitzke

A long and low free walk is a great way to break up pace for the gaited horse. Just make sure you begin with relaxation and balance to maximize your efforts.

Long and low or free walk on a long rein

Dressage is a form of training where the rider communicates with the horse using rein, leg, and seat aids to lead the horse into relaxation, balance, and forward movement without rushing, as well as symmetry and flexibility over time to develop the horse’s full range of motion and quality gaits for long term soundness.

In dressage there are many expressions within a gait. Long and low or free walk on a long rein is one of those expressions. The free walk is a required movement during all dressage tests—Introductory through Advanced.

A quality free walk shows the horse in a state of relaxation. The horse stretches forward, out and down with the head and neck into a light contact with the snaffle bit. The rider follows the natural head and neck motion with relaxed arms and follows the belly sway of the horse with relaxed hip joints. The horse walks with even rhythm, deep steps with each the hind leg under the belly for length of stride and over track.

Long and low or free walk on a long rein has many benefits for the naturally gaited horse:

  • The free walk is an evenly timed four beat gait that helps break up the laterally timed pace
  • The free walk stretches the spine and develops the top line muscles of the horse
  • The free walk develops rhythm and even strides which are foundational qualities in developing quality gaits
  • The free walk improves depth of stride and length of stride as the horse reaches beneath its belly with each hind leg step and over tracks the fore footprint
  • The lowered head and neck position of the free walk stimulates endorphins and relaxes the horse
  • Relaxation of the back reduces tension to aid in smoother gait
  • The free walk is a great way to begin and end every ride with a many stretch breaks within a riding session

A balanced riding position and horse balance

I’ve had the great privilege of auditing and riding with well-known clinicians who travel to my region. One of which is international riding bio-mechanics coach Mary Wanless. She challenges riders to become aware of their balanced riding position. While she teaches riders of trotting horses, the principles of rider position and balance also apply to naturally gaited horses.

Jennifer Klitzke riding at a Mary Wanless Clinic
Jennifer Klitzke riding her Spanish Mustang at a Mary Wanless Clinic and getting established in the A,B,Cs of riding biomechanics.

Long and low but not too low

The study of French dressage pulled back another layer of awareness for me with my gaited horses. It helped me see the difference between just letting my horse lower its head and neck as low as possible to lowering the head and neck while maintaining balance. French dressage helped me recognize that the free walk is a full body activity. You see, long and low is not beneficial if the horse in on the forehand and disengaged from behind.

French dressage encourages a neutral neck extension position instead of as low as the horse can go. A neck extension can be done at a walk, trot, or flat walk. It allows the horse a maximum stretch of the top line muscles and spine by allowing the horse to stretch out its head and neck, forward, out and down, but no lower than the poll at wither height. This helps the horse maintain more chest posture and balance.

The feeling of balance and its application for the naturally gaited horse

FEI dressage rider Heather Blitz describes the feeling of balance using this metaphor. While riding, imagine if your horse had a medicine ball which freely moves around its insides. Where does the weight of the medicine ball feel like it sits most? Does it feel like it rests in the horse’s chest or beneath your seat? The former indicates that the horse is more on the forehand and the latter indicates that the horse is more in balance with the rider.

Long and low in balance

Now think about long and low. If I were to release my horse into a long and low frame while her balance feels like the medicine ball is in her chest, what quality of free walk would we produce? My naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse would be traveling on the forehand, right? She would be pulling herself forward with her front legs, chest muscles collapsed, and her hind legs would be disengaged with shorter strides. This means her hind leg steps would trail behind her tail more than step deep beneath her body and create less over track with the fore hoof prints.

Now that I’ve become aware of how it feels when my horse is in and out of balance, it is important establish her balance BEFORE releasing the reins to a free walk on a long rein.

dressage for the gaited horse and rider
The yellow lines show balanced alignment. The horse’s foreleg is perpendicular with the ground while the yellow and green lines at the tail shows how much of the hind step is under the body and planted under the rider. The center yellow line shows a balanced riding position over the horse’s center of gravity.

The feeling of balance

This medicine ball metaphor has helped me discover the feeling of balance and what to do when I lose it. Each time it feels like the medicine ball rolls into my horse’s chest, I begin with a half halt or transition from walk to halt to walk. If the medicine ball still feels like it is in my horse’s chest, then I transition from walk to halt, take a couple steps of rein back until I feel the medicine ball roll beneath my seat. Then in a feeling of balance, I encourage my horse to take the reins long and low into a free walk. I feel her hind legs step deeply beneath her belly beneath my riding position.

Free walk on a long rein is a great way to break up pace for a natural, four-beat, smooth gait. It also improves depth of stride, length of stride, rhythm and relaxation. Just remember to establish balance before releasing the reins to maximize your efforts.

Watch: A Balanced Free walk on a Long Rein

Free walk on a long rein in a balanced position.

Watch: A Balanced Free walk on a Loose Rein

Free walk on a loose rein in a balanced position.

What are your thoughts? I’d love to hear from you. Please reach out and share your story by sending me a message. Or stay connected by subscribing to the Naturally Gaited youtube channel and follow our community on facebook.com/naturallygaited.