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Dressage Exercises for the Gaited Horse

Straightness Improves Even Smooth Gait

Straightness improves even gait
How straightness improves flexibility and even stride for quality smooth gaits.

What is straightness? Does this mean riding straight lines? Why train straightness with your naturally gaited horse and how does straightness improve even, quality smooth gaits?

Straightness Improves Even Smooth Gait

By Jennifer Klitzke

It might be surprising to know that the quality of straightness in dressage isn’t about traveling straight lines. Straightness develops symmetry and an ambidextrous horse that is flexible and supple. Straightness is key to develop quality smooth gaits with even strides.

Did you know that most horses are born right sided or left sided? This happens as they develop in the womb curved to one side. The inside curve of the body contracts and the outside of the body stretches.

This foal development in the womb produces imbalances in the naturally gaited horse including, stiffer outside muscles in one direction more than the other; unequal use of shoulders; tilting the poll; and an unequal use of carrying and weight bearing of each hind leg that impacts rhythm and a steady head nod for naturally gaited Tennessee walking horses and Fox Trotting horse.

How to Improve Even Quality Smooth Gaits with Straightness

Improve straightness by discovering the stiffer side

One way to know which side your horse is more contracted is to notice which side the mane falls. It flops to the inside of the curve while the horse is formed in womb. After the horse is born, the mane continues to flop to the same side.

While riding a horse that hasn’t developed symmetry or straightness, you’ll notice that it is easier to ride a circle in the direction where the mane flops to the inside of the circle. When you reverse the direction, it will be harder for the horse to maintain a circle because the outside muscles are stiffer when the mane-flopping side faces outside of the circle. Often riders think their problem is with the inside bend of the horse. Rather, the real problem is the outside muscles are stiff and the horse is having trouble stretching to produce a bend to the inside.

In other words, a horse struggles to stretch its outside muscles which causes the symptom of not being able to bend to the inside of the circle.

Riders need to help their horses become ambidextrous by stretching the stiff outside muscles until their horses are equally flexible in both directions. Riding your naturally gaited horse on a 20-meter circle is a great way to begin—twice as much in the direction of stiff outside muscles.

Improve straightness by noticing shoulder imbalance

Another way asymmetry presents itself on a circle is when the horse leans on the inside shoulder one direction and falls out through the shoulder the other direction.

Improve straightness by noticing poll imbalance

Also, the horse’s head will tilt at the poll. A great sign is when the ears aren’t level. This usually happens when the horse is traveling with its mane-flopping side to the outside of the circle where the muscles are stiffer and need to stretch.

Improve straightness by noticing uneven rhythm

In addition, the stiffer side and more flexible side on a circle affect how the horse uses its hind legs. One leg bears more weight under the body and the other will push more from behind. This becomes noticeable on a circle. The horse tends to step shorter and under its body with the hind leg of the mane-flopping side while the other hind leg will push more from the non mane-flopping side. This uneven use of the hind legs produces an uneven rhythm.

Improve straightness by noticing uneven head nodding

This uneven rhythm on a circle really becomes apparent for naturally gaited breeds such as the Tennessee walking horse and Fox trotter. Why? Because there are more moving parts than the trotting horse. Not only do all legs move independently to produce a smooth, even four-beat gait, but these breeds have a head nod. It is much easier to create rhythm in the trotting horse breeds because there are less moving parts.

For the naturally gaited horse, the lack of straightness or symmetry really becomes apparent when riding on a circle. The horse might take a few consistent steps in a smooth, even four-beat gait rhythm and then lose rhythm, break gait, begin to rush, or have uneven hind leg steps.

Think of riding a circle as two circles not one

Part of the reason the horse loses rhythm on a circle is that the horse’s outside muscles are stiff. Another reason is that a horse is actually traveling on two circles: a larger circle with its outside legs and a smaller circle with its inside legs.

Here’s an extreme example, yet it illustrates the point that the outside of a circle is a bigger than the inside of the circle. Have you ever watched a drill team perform a circle in a straight line? You’ll notice that the horses in the center are barely moving. Each consecutive horse moves faster until you reach the end of the line. The end horse is galloping in order to maintain a straight line.

In order for the horse to maintain rhythm, it needs to lengthen and stretch the outside of its body to take bigger strides with its outside legs in order to keep up with the smaller circle of the inside legs. It will be easier for horse to travel on a circle with its mane-flopping side to the inside, because the non mane-flopping side stretches more easily. Switch directions and it will be more difficult, because the horse has to stretch its stiffer outside muscles and take longer strides to keep up with the smaller inside circle.

This is one big reason why circles are used so much in dressage to help horses become ambidextrous. As the horse advances in its flexibility, the circles get smaller to increase the stretching of the outside muscles. Twenty meter-circles become 15-meter circles to 10-meter circles.

If you’ve ridden your naturally gaited horse in a circle, you’ve likely felt the difference between one direction and the other. Now you know why. It is up to us to develop our naturally gaited horses evenly on both sides by stretching the stiff outside muscles using circles and lateral exercises Shoulder-in, shoulder-out, haunches in, and haunches out are great lateral exercises that stretch the outside muscles and also teach our naturally gaited horses balance in their chest and shoulders. Chest balance lifts the head and neck and the wither. The horse learns to carry its own head and neck and not lean on the bit and the rider’s hands.

In the end, straightness training on circles and lateral exercises will help our naturally gaited horses become more even in their strides, consistent in their rhythm and head nod, and stronger and more flexible in both directions.

In addition to lots of circles, below are three of my favorite exercises that help develop straightness, flexibility and balance: the flechi-droit, counter bend neck rein turns, and the shoulder-in on a circle. These exercises can be introduced to your horse in-hand and then in the saddle at a walk and later in gait.

Exercises for Straightness, Flexibility and Balance

flechi droit
The Flechi droit on a 20-meter circle asks the horse to keep its body bent to the 20-meter circle while the head and neck bend more. This helps the horse find balance in the shoulders, stretches the outside neck muscles, and prepares the horse for balanced circles.

Flechi-droit (pronounced fleshy-doowa)

The flechi-droit isn’t an exercise taught in mainstream dressage. It is a French dressage exercise. To me, the exercise looks and feels super weird, but the flechi-droit produces so many great benefits for the horse and coordination of aids for the rider.

  1. The flechi-droit teaches the rider coordination of the rein aids.
  2. The flechi-droit stretches the outside neck muscles of the stiff outside muscles which is important in developing straightness.
  3. The flechi-droit teaches the horse straightness in the shoulders, meaning the horse isn’t leaning on the inside shoulder or falling out with the outside shoulder.
  4. The flechi-droit is a great preparatory for circles. Developing straightness in the shoulders using the flechi-droit is crucial before introducing circles. If the horse develops a habit of leaning on the inside shoulder, the horse develops a habit of being crooked, not straight, and the rider develops the feeling of crookedness as the norm.

    When the horse is straight in the shoulders, the horse can be introduced to circles. In this way, the rider will feel if the horse begins to lose straightness. Then the rider can return the horse to the flechi-droit for straightness and try the circle again.

In the flechi-droit, the horse’s body travels straight along the wall or following the arc of a 20-meter circle and the neck is bent inward 45 to 90-degrees. The flechi-droit is introduced in hand at a halt and walk and then in the saddle at a halt and then a slow walk. Later the flechi-droit can be applied at a trot or gait once the horse and rider are comfortable in the exercise.

Counter bending

The purpose of the counter bend neck rein turn is to move the balance from the outside shoulder to the inside shoulder. This will help the naturally gaited horse find lightness in the smooth gait.
neck rein turn out of balance
This is how NOT to do a counter bend neck rein. Crossing of the outside leg over the inside leg throws the horse out of balance. The purpose of the counter bend neck rein turn is to move the balance from the outside shoulder to the inside shoulder. This will help the naturally gaited horse find lightness in there smooth gait.

Sequence of counter bending aids:

  1. Begin at a very slow walk
  2. The rider positions the horse’s head and neck slightly to the outside bend enough to see the horse’s eye
  3. Then the rider draws both hands to the opposite side and motions gentle sideways nudges with the reins at the timing of the inside front leg in motion to shift the horse’s balance from the outside shoulder to the inside shoulder
  4. The outside leg steps forward while the inside leg steps into the circle as if the horse is extending sideways
  5. As the rider and horse get a good sense of the sequence and timing of aids, the tempo can increase
  6. Counter bend neck rein turns can be done in serpentines, squares, figure eights, circles and random turns as needed for lightness

I have been applying counter bend neck rein turns with my naturally gaited horses for a couple years now. We do serpentines, squares, figure eights, circles and random turns as needed for straightness and lightness. These exercises began at a slow walk, to a slow gait, and then we increased the tempo.

To my amazement, the counter bend neck rein turns have freed up my horses’ shoulders. My naturally gaited horses have become lighter in my hands, because they are less on the forehand and more balanced overall.

Think about it: if the horse is turning through the shoulders, they cannot be on the forehand or leaning on the bit, right?

Counter bends eventually improved the quality of our true bends–which actually are straightening around circles and corners since horse’s spine doesn’t actually bend. Horses spines move side-to-side with each step. How can the spine remain at an arc when it is in motion? It can’t.

Shoulder-in on a circle

shoulder-in on a circle
Shoulder in on a circle: this exercise checks the mobility of the horse’s hind leg stepping under its belly.


One of my favorite exercises for improving balance in the naturally gaited horse are shoulder-in voltes (shoulder in on a small circle). It is helpful to teach the horse this exercise in-hand and the introduce shoulder-in on a circle while riding at a “slow” but “active” walk.

Benefits of shoulder-in volte for the rider and horse:

  1. It teaches the rider the coordination of hand, leg, seat, and weight aids.
  2. It stretches the outside muscles of the horse’s body to develop equal flexibility in both directions.
  3. It strengthens the horse’s inside hind leg as it steps under its body.
  4. It produces balance when the horse lifts its chest and shoulders and engages its hindquarters to lighten the forehand.
  5. It produces softness.
  6. The shoulder in ultimately improves the quality of the natural smooth gaits as the medium walk, flat walk, running walk, and canter.

Watch the video below of me and my naturally gaited Tennessee walking. While we perform the shoulder-in on a circle, I’ll explain the rein and weight aids, the importance of maintaining an even contact with both hands to the snaffle bit, while following the natural head and neck motion of the horse in walk, flat walk, running walk and canter.

Is your naturally gaited horse really stiff in the jaw and poll? This next blog post has many great exercises to teach your naturally gaited horse that will make the rest of your smooth gaited riding easier. Beginning lessons in Legerete>

I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.

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Dressage for the Gaited Horse

Pace & the Naturally Gaited Horse

Pace and the Naturally Gaited Horse

Classical French Dressage Master Philippe Karl offers unique insights to break up pacey walks in trotting horses. If this is true, this can also remedy pacey naturally gaited horses.

Pace and the Naturally Gaited Horse

By Jennifer Klitzke

Recently I came across a Facebook post from Becky Holden, an accomplished dressage rider/trainer/instructor/clinician, licensed School of Légèreté teacher, and long-time student of Classical French Dressage Master Philippe Karl (PK), founder of the School of Légèreté.

In Becky’s last clinic lessons with PK, she rode a younger trotting horse that had a tendency to pace at the walk.

Yes, even trotting horses can struggle with a pacey walk often called a camel walk.

What I found interesting was PK’s insights as he taught Becky how to help her horse break up the pace to a natural four beat walk. I believe PK’s insights translate directly to naturally gaited horses that struggle with pace.

PK explained that horses with a pacey walk are lazy with their hind legs and/or are too quick with their front leg steps.

To remedy the pace, PK’s suggestions to Becky are that, “We need to stimulate activity from the hind legs with shoulder-in on the circle and slow down and give amplitude to the front legs with neck rein turns or counter shoulder-in on the circle.”

Neck rein turns are a great way to lighten a horse that is heavy on the shoulders. By neck rein, the rider draws both hands to the outside of the bend with equal light contact and a nudge sideways if needed.

Counter bend
Counter bend with neck rein moves balance from the outside shoulder to the inside shoulder.

In addition to a counter bend neck rein on a circle, you can do a counter bend figure eight or counter bend serpentine by changing the counter bend and neck rein for each circle or serpentine loop. For a serpentine, slightly bend the horse to the outside of a serpentine and neck rein (counter bend) the opposite direction of the bend. Then straighten the horse a few steps and bend the other direction and neck rein (counter bend) the opposite direction of the bend and straighten a few steps until the serpentine is complete.

After a couple figure eights or a serpentine, liven the horse in a forward gait along the straight side and repeat the figure eight or serpentine counter bend neck rein exercise. Theses exercises can be first taught to the horse at a walk and then at a trot or gait.

Don’t practice pace—practice quality gait

Instead of practicing a poor quality gait, such as a pacey walk, PK encourages riders to apply plenty of transitions between gaits and exercises using the rein back; figure eight at a walk (one circle shoulder-in and the other circle counter shoulder-in).

Then the rider can proceed in a straight line while maintaining a quality slow, yet forward walk in rhythm; and trot [gait] shoulder-in on the circle, transition to walk shoulder-in on a circle, and transition back to trot [gait] shoulder-in on a circle.

Rein back engages the hindquarters and lifts the back and wither
Lady is being ridden in a Dr. Cook bitless bridle showing rein back on a loose rein. The rein back engages the hindquarters and lifts the back and wither.

I find PK’s insights regarding pace interesting. Often our remedy to pace in the naturally gaited horse world focuses on relaxing the back through lots of long and low. Many times the long and low gets too low where the poll falls below the whither and the naturally gaited horse develops a habit of traveling on the forehand. When the horse is on the forehand it trips more often and this can be dangerous for the rider.

Long and low on the forehand disengaged from behind
Long and low can relax the back and break up pace, but it can also cause the horse to disengage the hind legs and fall on the forehand.

By controlling the timing of the foot falls using transitions and lateral exercises, PK’s approach improves balance on all four legs, relaxation, and quality of natural gaits.

Shoulder in on a circle
Shoulder in on a circle helps Lady engage from behind to step under her belly, lift her back and whither by activating her abdominal and chest muscles, improving balance, and relaxing her jaw, tasting the bit, getting softer on the bridle, and accepting a light, stead, even contact with both reins.

In fact, PK doesn’t support long and low (when the horse’s poll is below the height of the wither) because it trains the horse to travel on the forehand, slouching its pectoral muscles, and travel out of balance. Instead he teaches neck extension (head, neck and nose out and down yet no lower than poll to wither height) in a forward walk, trot or canter.

The neck extension provides the same great benefits as long and low, yet maintains the horse’s balance, plus relaxation, strengthening the top line muscles, stretching the spine, and improving engagement.

Neck extension at a flat walk
This is a great example of a neck extension at a flat walk. My naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse is engaged, lifting her back, stretching out, forward, and down at chest level with an even snaffle bit contact.

My naturally gaited fox trotting horse Lady showing a quality trot on cue.

For more about Philippe Karl and the School of Légèreté, visit philipp-karl.com.

For more about Becky Holden, visit Riding from the Ground Up.

I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.

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The Versatile Gaited Horse

Gaited Trail Horse or Gaited Dressage Horse?

Gaited Trail Horse or Gaited Dressage Horse Why not Both

Gaited Trail Horse or Gaited Dressage Horse—Why not Both

By Jennifer Klitzke

Whether you have a talented naturally gaited horse for the trail or dressage ring, versatility training helps them be smoother, safer, and sounder for longer.

I have two naturally gaited horses: Lady and Makana. Lady is a fox trotting grade, gaited horse who is phenomenal on the trail. Makana is a registered Tennessee walking horse who is gifted for gaited dressage. While each is wired for the trail or the gaited dressage show ring, I like to expand their worlds, and here’s why…

The Naturally Gaited Trail Horse

Me and Lady
Me and Lady at the scenic St. Croix River vista.

My naturally gaited fox trotting mare, Lady, was born for the trail. She is bold and smooth and loves exploring nature just as much as I do. She loves being ridden on a long, floppy rein without the constant dialogue of rein, leg, seat and weight aids. 

Is Lady gifted to be a gaited dressage show horse? I don’t think so. Her conformation provides challenges with a long, hollow back and shorter legs. She doesn’t have a natural over track (where the hind leg steps over the fore foot print). And Lady is built heavy on the forehand.

Can Lady learn dressage? Absolutely. But, if I’m not interested in showing Lady in gaited dressage, why would I teach her dressage?

Here are three great reasons why I teach dressage to my naturally, gaited trail horse:

  1. Improving natural smooth gaits: Dressage helps Lady improve the quality of her natural smooth gaits through teaching her balance, relaxation, rhythm, engagement, connection, straightness, and collection. By improving the quality of Lady’s naturally smooth gaits, we can cover a lot of ground faster on the trail and my body won’t pay for it later.
  2. Improving soundness: Dressage teaches Lady how to re-position her posture from hollow to neutral which can help Lady be sounder on the trail for many more years to come.
  3. Improving balance: Dressage helps Lady re-distribute her weight from traveling on the forehand to developing balance to carry her weight on all four legs. This balanced posture will prolong Lady’s soundness on the trail. Plus, she won’t trip as much when she isn’t on the forehand, and that will keep me safer and more secure as a rider.
Engaged relaxed balanced fox trot in connection with rhythm and contact
Here’s Lady ridden in a Dr. Cook bitless bridle showing an engaged, relaxed, and balanced fox trot in connection with rhythm and contact.

The Naturally Gaited Dressage Horse

Flat walk
Makana and I showing gaited dressage at an open dressage schooling show.

Then there’s my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana. She is gifted with good conformation and naturally balanced gaits. Makana has a natural over track of three to four hoof prints. She enjoys the gaited dressage show ring and likes the two-way communication between us. Makana likes learning new exercises like leg yield, shoulder in, haunches in, rein back, roll backs, cantering rails and gymnastic jumping. She also enjoys a variety of smooth, easy gaits on cue: freewalk, medium walk, flat walk, running walk, fox trot, saddle rack, canter, counted walk, and piaffe. 

Makana Crow Hassan
Makana takin’ a real close look at that trail sign and wonders, “Are we there yet?”

On the trail, Makana becomes overly reactive. She gets nervous and can spook without notice. Does that mean I should never ride Makana on the trail? I don’t think so. 

While on the trail, I converse with her through my rein, leg, seat and weight aids to help her relax and stay balanced. This way she is less spooky and settles into enjoying nature. I wear my helmet, ride with others, and we have a good ol’ time. (Plus, trail riding is one way to get my husband to join me.)

Since acclimating Makana to trails, we enjoy endurance riding as well.

Dressage helps the naturally gaited horse be more versatile

So to me, dressage is more than the show ring. Through dressage, naturally gaited trail horse can develop smoother natural gaits, become more balanced and trip less to keep the rider safer, and improve their posture and muscle development to keep stay sounder longer.

For the naturally gaited dressage horse, dressage helps them on the trail as well. Using dressage, the horse and rider can converse through two-way dialog, where the rider can lead the horse into relaxation and balance. As the reactive horse becomes more relaxed, it will be less spooky.

Naturally gaited trail horse or naturally gaited dressage horse? How about naturally gaited trail AND dressage horse.

If you are on this gaited dressage journey, I’d love to hear from you. Contact us»

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Dressage for the Gaited Horse

Contact & Connection with the Naturally Gaited horse

connection and contact with the naturally gaited horse


What is rooting? Why does a horse root? How can you help a gaited horse overcome rooting and establish bit acceptance, connection and contact? Here’s my story…

Contact & Connection with the Naturally Gaited Horse

By Jennifer Klitzke

Rooting. It is an evasion when a horse grabs the bit and pulls the reins out of the rider’s hands. When it comes to contact and connection, rooting is on the opposite end of the dressage galaxy.

While we have made steady progress in developing smooth gaits, my naturally gaited fox trotting horse, Lady, still prefers traveling on the forehand, disengaged from behind on a long, floppy rein. It’s been six summers and Lady is 15. Maybe I should just give up trying to establish contact. Riding on a long floppy rein is a lot easier.

Long and Low on the forehand
Here’s a great example of long and low on the forehand. I am riding my naturally gaited fox trotting horse Lady. While this is a nice stretch and helps the horse relax, it puts the horse on the forehand, the horse disengages behind, and the back remains hollow.

Lady has never been a fan of contact—even a light, one-ounce contact. She’s been this way ever since she came to my place six years ago. I don’t know her training history before she came from a sale barn. Lady is unregistered, and our best guess is that she is a Morgan/Tennessee walking horse cross. If anyone looked at Lady as a dressage prospect, they would have passed on by. She’s beautiful, but she is built ventro flexed, on the forehand with short legs and a long back.

Don’t give the horse something to pull against

Lady is a beautiful black trail horse deluxe. She doesn’t root on a long, floppy rein because there is nothing to pull against.

I like trail riding Lady on a long, floppy rein, too. Lady is bold and smooth and covers a lot of ground in a short time with her smooth gait. I can enjoy the beauty of God’s creation and my aging body won’t pay for it later. Only, riding on a long, floppy rein isn’t dressage. It is more like being a passenger than a two-way dialogue between horse and rider.

There is nothing wrong with riding on a long, floppy rein. It just a different way to ride. It’s like comparing apples and oranges. Yes, there are moments in dressage where the horse stretches down and out, but the horse is not predominantly trained in a long and low position without contact.

Dressage and the naturally gaited horse

While riding on a long, floppy rein may not give the horse something to pull against, it isn’t the solution to the real issue—bit acceptance and contact.

Instead, I think the answer lies in applying dressage with my naturally gaited horses. As a rider, it is my job to help my horse establish relaxation of mind and body, balance, rhythm, connection, engagement, straightness, collection, and harmony. Dressage requires a two-way, ongoing dialogue between me and my horse.

Dressage begins with me becoming a better rider through my hands and Lady’s mouth; my balanced riding position in line with the horse’s center of gravity; and the effective timing and use of my rein, leg, seat, and weight aids to help my horse improve her quality smooth gaits and range of motion.

Allowing my horse a good, long and low stretch is great, but I don’t train my naturally gaited horse like this the entire ride, especially if my horse is in a position that disengages from her hind legs, travels on the forehand, and hollows her back. Or if it feels like my horse’s center of gravity is like a boulder in her chest, ahead of my seat.

Contact & Connection with the Naturally Gaited Horse

Dressage requires connection and contact. Connection is an orchestration of the rider’s rein, leg, seat and weight aids to help the horse best utilize its entire body, tempo, direction, gait, and frame. The rider needs to help the horse engage its hindquarters to step under its body, activate its abdominal muscles to lift its back to a neutral position, and raise its wither so that the horse isn’t on the forehand. Rather, that the horse learns posture and balance to carry its weight on all four legs.

Contact isn’t forcing head set by pulling back on the reins, nor is it a tight and constant grip of the reins with the horse’s mouth. Rather, contact is a gentle invitation to relaxation of the lower jaw and mouth which has a way of relaxing the entire body and back. Contact can direct the horse into chest posture and balance. Contact is an ongoing dialogue with the fingers and the horse’s mouth; asking and releasing when the horse responds. The horse accepts an even, steady, light contact with both reins AND that the rider learns to follow the natural head and neck motion of the horse with relaxed shoulders, arms and hands. Contact is a two-way partnership between the rider and horse.

Contact is when I begin encountering rooting behavior with Lady.

What causes rooting & how do you overcome it?

Each time I encounter a training challenge, I return to the learning lab and explore what’s missing in my dressage. How can I be a better rider and communicate better with Lady to work through this rooting reaction to connection and contact?

I have read so many perspectives about why horses root and how to overcome it.

Horses root for many reasons, such as:

  • A heavy-handed rider that pulls back on the reins and causes pain on the horse’s tongue; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • An inexperienced rider hangs onto the reins to keep their balance; often school horses encounter this and they root because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • A tense or stiff rider that doesn’t follow the horse’s natural head and neck motion; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • A harsh or improperly fitting bit that causes pain; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • Teeth that need a float or dental care; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • A poorly fitting saddle; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • A horse that is not fit enough to do the work that is being asked; the horse roots because it hurts; the horse roots to escape the pain
  • A horse that has learned that rooting can get out of working; rooting becomes a bad habit

Ways to help the horse overcome rooting are:

  • Having a vet evaluate if the horse has a physical pain issue in its mouth or body
  • Riding with a properly fitting saddle and a comfortable bit
  • Following the natural head and neck motion of the horse with relaxed shoulders, arms and hands
  • Teaching the horse how to taste the bit and relax the jaw as taught by Classical French Dressage Masters Philippe Karl, Jean Claude Racinet and others, first in-hand and then from the saddle
  • Teaching the horse lateral exercises such as the shoulder-in, shoulder-out along the fence, haunches in, pivot the fore, first in-hand and then from the saddle
  • Not giving the horse an opportunity to pull by releasing the reins before the horse roots and then encouraging engagement from the hindquarters
  • Helping the horse decide that connection and contact are enjoyable by encouraging every positive effort
  • Taking the time needed for the horse’s progress instead of imposing expectations
  • Mixing up a riding session to keep it interesting for the horse
  • Trying different snaffle or mullen mouth bits: thinner bits or hollow mouthed bits; bits with a lozenge or French link bits; different flavored bits like sweet copper, German metal, Happy Mouth, or rubber bits

My theory about why Lady roots

I’ve ruled out physical causes due to dental care, body pain, saddle fit, and heavy hands. What could be causing Lady’s rooting behavior?

Lady loves to travel with her nose to the ground and on the forehand. In this posture, she disengages behind and travels with a hollow back. She roots to put herself in this position. It’s what she knows. It’s how she’s built. It’s easier for her. It’s even smooth and it’s great on the trail, but it’s not dressage. And she stumbles a lot in this position which isn’t safe for the rider.

While a few steps of long and low stretching is good, I don’t like to train my horses to be on the forehand, disengaged from behind (not stepping deep under the body), and getting hollow in the back. Lady is being ridden in a Dr. Cook bitless bridle.

Contact is when I follow her natural head and neck motion in her easy gaits with an even, steady, one-ounce contact with relaxed shoulders, arms and hands on both reins. Lady will take a few relaxed, smooth, balanced steps and then she will draw her nose to her chest and yank at the reins. 

Since Lady came to my home with a rooting issue and six years later at the age of 15, still has one, I have to focus on the good moments between each yank instead of thinking that each yank means no progress has been made. 

Then there is connection which asks Lady to engage her hindquarters to step under her body, activate her abdominal muscles to lift her back, and find balance to carry her weight on all four legs. This challenges her habit of disengaging her hind legs (traveling more behind her tail than stepping under her body) and pushing her weight onto the forehand.

Engaged relaxed balanced fox trot in connection with rhythm and contact
Here’s Lady ridden in a Dr. Cook bitless bridle showing an engaged, relaxed, and balanced fox trot in connection with rhythm and contact.

I am a chronic chair sloucher. It is hard for me to change my posture. I have to WANT to change my posture and re-position my body to make it happen.

Lady loves to be a trail horse. Does Lady want to change her posture? I think she argues about it by rooting to avoid engaging, using her abdominal muscles to lift her back, carrying her weight on all four legs, and accepting an even, constant, one-ounce contact with the reins.

In my opinion, Lady isn’t objecting only to the contact. She is objecting to re-posturing her body out of her habit and preference. She would rather disengage from behind and carry her weight on her forehand with a hollow back and no contact than be in balance.

So why don’t I just let Lady be a trail horse?

The reason I encourage Lady to adjust her posture is for her long-term soundness. If Lady develops balance, relaxation and flexibility she will be sounder longer than she would if she continues to travel with a hollow back and on the forehand.

Dressage will benefit her body so that she will be a sound horse longer. Connection is so important for Lady to develop engagement so that she steps deeper under her body, activates her abdominal muscles to lift her back to a neutral position, lift her withers so that she carries her body mass more equally on all four legs instead of disengaging behind and traveling on the forehand with a hollow back.

Contact is important between horse and rider for communication, relaxation of the lower jaw, and softness.

My approach with Lady using dressage

Being a good student of dressage, I listen to my horse, do my best to negotiate through an evasion, then seek answers when I am stumped. 

So, knowing what I know now about rooting, Lady’s conformation, Lady’s preferences, and dressage. How do I proceed? Do I quit trying to develop a two-way relationship with Lady and just ride her like a trail horse on a long, floppy rein? Do I scrap the idea of helping her improve her balance, rhythm, relaxation, connection, engagement, straightness, and collection to improve the quality of her naturally smooth gaits and prolong her soundness? Or do I tweak my approach?

I choose the latter.

Contact and connection strategies with a rooting horse:

  • I try different bits and bitless bridles: a thinner, double-jointed, full-cheek snaffle with a lozenge; a Dr. Cook bitless bridle; a hollow mouth sweet copper snaffle with a lozenge 
  • Become aware of my breathing and body relaxation and follow my horse’s natural head and neck motion with relaxed arms, shoulders and hands
  • Separate the timing of my rein aids from my leg aids; being conscious to not combine the stop and go aids at the same time
  • Hold my weight in my thighs so that I am not sitting on my horse’s spine and following my horse’s belly sway with relaxed hip joints
  • Not give my horse an opportunity to root by releasing the reins just before she draws her nose back and pulls, then encourage engagement from her hindquarters, and re-establish a light, following contact
  • Ensure my horse is tasting the bit and relaxing her jaw; if not, halt and encourage this relaxation before proceeding
  • Ride my horse in symmetry exercises, such as the shoulder-in, shoulder-out along the fence, haunches in, pivot the fore, and ride in a shoulder-fore position to develop flexibility, strength and suppleness
  • Help my horse decide that connection and contact are enjoyable by encouraging every positive effort with release, reward, and plenty of halt-stretch breaks
  • Mix up riding sessions to keep it interesting
  • After a few relaxed, smooth, balanced steps, transition to a halt before my horse roots. Then ask her to take the bit down to the ground as a reward
  • Erase all expectations and go at my horse’s timing not mine
Rein back engages the hindquarters activates the abdominal muscles to lift the back and raises the wither
The rein back engages Lady’s hindquarters, activates her abdominal muscles to lift her back, and it raises her wither. Lady is being ridden in a Dr. Cook bitless bridle.
Shoulder in on a square
Lateral exercises, like the shoulder-in on a square, have been working wonders with Lady. She is soft and light. She tastes the bit, engages from behind, lifts her back and withers, and carries her weight on all four feet. If her body becomes straight again, she roots, so I keep her in a shoulder-fore position. Lady is being ridden in a full cheek snaffle with a double-jointed copper lozenge. Shoulder in on a square and pivot the fore help Lady engage from behind, lift her back, get soft on the bridle and accept the contact.
Shoulder out along the fence
Shoulder out along the fence has really helped Lady. It is a great way to introduce lateral exercises. The fence and the rider’s aids guide the horse into the exercise.

To my amazement, all of the above worked wonders for Lady. The most surprising is that she preferred the super gentle hollow mouthed, sweet copper snaffle bit with a lozenge to the thinner bit with a copper lozenge and bitless bridle.

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French Dressage for Gaited Horses

Hand Position & its Effect on Smooth Gaits

hand position and its effect on the naturally gaited horse

Does hand position make a difference with how well the naturally gaited horse accepts a snaffle bit contact? Can hand position help or hinder relaxation in the naturally gaited horse? How does hand position impact smooth gaits?

Hand Position & Its Effect on Smooth Gaits

Studying Classical French Dressage has opened my eyes to new concepts in my riding. Not only have these concepts impacted the quality of smooth gaits, but they have also brought joy and harmony to my rides with my naturally gaited horses.

A few years ago, I audited and rode at a few Susan Norman clinics who teaches riding with lightness. She studied under, not one, but two French Classical Dressage Masters: Philippe Karl and the late Jean-Claude Racinet. Susan’s clinics introduced me books and DVDs produced by her protégés. These resources have opened my eyes and awareness to new ways of interacting with my horses that have greatly improved their smooth gaits.

philippe-karl-dvds-video-camera
French Classical Dressage Master Philippe Karl’s DVDs Classical vs. Classique and Classical Dressage, volumes 1-4 are excellent resources.
Jean Claude Racinet's book and Lisa Maxwell's DVD
Other favorites are ean Claude Racinet’s book Another Horsemanship and Lisa Maxwell’s DVD Getting Started In Lightness: The French Classical Dressage of Francois Baucher as taught by Jean Claude Racinet presented by one of his students Lisa Maxwell.

While Norman, Karl, and Racinet apply dressage with horses that trot, I have found that the French Classical Dressage principles they teach apply well with the naturally gaited horses as well. What I have learned has produced lightness, balance, mental and physical relaxation, rhythm, engagement, straightness, collection, harmony, and joy. In turn, this humane method has developed full range of motion and quality natural smooth gaits.

The difference hand position makes

Among the differences is hand position. Karl’s teachings opened my eyes to how hand position impacts movement―for the better and the worse. Did you know that where the bit makes contact with the horse’s mouth is the difference between tension or pain and relaxation? Did you know that a tense horse moves differently than a relaxed horse? I didn’t have this awareness until I began to study Karl’s dressage application and begin to understand his philosophy.

For years I had been instructed to maintain a low hand position. Raising my hands to cue my horse was frowned upon. According to Karl, riding with low fixed hands applies tongue pressure. The horse’s response to this pressure is pain or tension and resistance. This leads to avoiding contact by going behind the bit and over flexing; going above the bit and becoming hollow; or getting tense in the jaw leading to a braced back. For the naturally gaited horse, a braced back leads to pacing, step pacing, a hard hollow trot, or stiff movement―certainly not the smooth gaits I am aiming for!

There is a big difference between riding my horse with low fixed hands and riding my horse with higher hands for cueing. A low fixed hand position presses the bit into my horse’s tongue which produces pain, tension and resistance. Cueing with higher hands makes contact with the less sensitive corners of my horse’s lips. Once my horse responds to the cue, I lower my hands to a neutral position with a light following contact. This means I gently follow the natural head and neck motion. If my hands remain in a low fixed position, it accentuates the bracing, pacing and rough gaits.

Watch: Rider Position and Effect on Smooth Gaits

The purpose of nosebands

Another eye-opener for me was the use of nose bands and flash attachments. For years, I showed my horses at dressage competitions. A quiet mouth was prized, so we rode with nose bands and flash attachments to keep the horse’s mouth closed.

Karl rides with a loose nose band or no nose band at all. Why? This permits the horse to freely open its mouth, taste the bit, salivate, and swallow to encourage relaxation. When a horse is ridden in a snug fitting noseband with or without a flash attachment, it can prevent the horse from swallowing. When you see excessive foam dripping from the horse’s mouth, it is likely that the horse isn’t swallowing. A little salivation is good, as long as the horse is able to swallow. When the horse is unable to swallow, this can lead to mental and physical tension which leads to a braced back. For naturally gaited horses, a braced back leads to pacing, step pacing, a hard hollow trot, or stiff movement―definitely not the smooth gaits I seek.

While educating the horse to the rider’s hands, the rider will have higher hands in training until the horse finds its balanced. Once the horse finds balance, the rider’s hands can be lowered to a neutral position.

A bit maker’s perspective

I recently watched a YouTube video: Dale Myler Bitting Series: #1 Understanding Bit Resistance (below) that reinforces Karl’s belief about tongue pressure. Mylar believes that riding the horse with tongue pressure cuts off the horse’s ability to salivate and swallow which distresses the horse. When the bit presses into the tongue by low fixed hands, the tongue begins to affect the horse’s ability to breathe. Adding to this, tension in the jaw encourages the horse to travel on the forehand and shortens the horse’s depth of stride.

Now, I certainly don’t want these qualities for my naturally gaited horses. Do you?

Thinking this through, as I ride my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horses and fox trotting mare, I apply a higher hand position for cueing, then a light neutral position that gently follow the natural head and neck motion. This helps keep my gaited horses relaxed in the jaw, accepting the snaffle bit contact, and has improved our smooth gaits.

I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.

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