A great way to introduce the leg yield is along the fence or wall of the arena.
The leg yield is a great exercise for pacey gaited horses. The diagonal footfall of the leg yield break ups the lateral sequence of the pace for smooth gait.
In 1988, I was riding an off-the-track thoroughbred who knew nothing about dressage. Same as me. It was my first dressage lesson. Green rider, green horse is not usually the best combination. At least I was committed to regular dressage lessons.
Anyhow, during this first dressage lesson is when I was introduced to the leg yield. It is a great introductory exercise for horses and riders. It teaches the use and timing of the rein, leg, and seat aids of the rider to direct the horse in a forward, slightly angled direction in a rather straight position. For a green horse, it is an introduction to what the rider aids mean.
Introducing the leg yield along the fence
The leg yield is not a sideways movement, but a forward angled movement. A great way to introduce the leg yield is along the fence or wall of the arena at a slow walk. In a leg yield, the horse moves away from the leg cue and steps its hind leg under its belly towards the opposite front leg. Once the horse understands moving away from the rider’s lower leg alongside the fence, the leg yield can be introduced from the quarter line to the fence.
Rider cues to leg yield
Start by positioning the horse along the quarter line between your rein, seat and leg aids; encourage the horse to walk straight a few steps
Then apply and release the lower leg along the girth just as the horse’s hind leg is about to step forward. The timing of the rider’s leg cue is important to urge the horse’s hind leg to step forward under the belly toward the opposite forefoot.
Since horses tend to over bend the neck or lead with their shoulders as they learn the leg yield. Help the horse remain fairly straight from the bridle, shoulders and hips. Maintain contact with the outside rein to keep the head, neck and shoulder straight. If the horse gets stiff in the jaw, use your inside fingers and massage the rein to encourage a soft contact.
After the horse understands leg yield at a walk along the fence and from the quarter line to the fence with relaxation, rhythm, and balance, then introduce leg yield at a flat walk. Begin with a couple steps of leg yield at a flat walk and then proceed in a straight line. Increase the number of leg yield steps until the horse is able to travel gradually from the quarter line to the fence (or arena wall).
The next progression of the leg yield is from the quarter line to the fence and then the centerline to the fence.
Video: Leg Yield at a Walk
Naturally Gaited Tennessee Walking Horse performing the leg yield at a walk.
Video: Leg Yield at a Flat Walk
After my horse understands the leg yield at a walk, then I increase the tempo to a slow smooth gait.
Video: Zig Zag Leg Yield at a Flat Walk
Naturally Gaited Tennessee Walking Horse performing the leg yield at a flat walk.
Once your horse understands the leg yield in both directions, the next progression is the zig zag at a walk and then a flat walk. The horse leg yields one direction and then changes to the other direction.
A year ago, I acquired a three-year-old unstarted gaited horse thanks to the help of a friend. Today this four-year-old and I are riding dressage solo through the woods. Here’s a review of this colt’s first year under saddle with dressage.
A Year in Review: Dressage with an Unstarted Gaited Horse
By Jennifer Klitzke
Mary and I have been horse friends for many years. Then COVID closed the world and drew everyone apart. The internet helped us stay connected, at least 1D. It is hard to ride horses that way, though. Thankfully, my horses are near.
Only, my horses are getting up in age. So are we, according to my husband.
While my husband has been set on downsizing and golf courses, I am way too young for retirement. I know many who still ride non-gaited and smooth gaited horses into their senior years. That means I’ve got at least one more horse to raise. After all, whacking a ball with a stick hasn’t been my gig. (Dreams of gaiting the manicured greens, on the other hand, that’s my jam!)
“No. No. No!” Said my husband every time I brought up the idea of another horse.
On October 7, 2021, “No. No. No!” didn’t stop me. I went to see him anyway. His name was Marvel, a three-year-old, unstarted Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse gelding. I had a feeling about him. It became an even stronger feeling when I saw him. Kind of like seeing the puppy at the Humane Society, only x 10.
Just how would I convince my husband to change his mind?!
Meanwhile, my Facebook activity tipped off Mary. Likes and comments about horse rescues and rehoming gaited horses caught her eye. Unaware of my husband’s resistance, she offered to help with the rehoming fee. Turns out, her willingness to help, was enough to sway my husband’s “No. No. No!” to “yes.”
Elated, Marvel arrived October 16, 2021. It would be up to me now to prove this decision was worth pushing off his downsizing golf course retirement dreams.
Marvel(ous) Milestones
Recap of our first year starting a gaited horse under saddle with dressage
Introducing the bridle and working in hand helped Marvel learn to accept and follow a light snaffle bit contact while learning stretching exercises at a halt and then in hand at a walk. This became excellent preparation for saddle training. Learn More: Introducing the Bridle and Working In Hand
Marvel and I learn communication through lunging. First with a halter and lunge line, then with a snaffle bit and halter, then with a saddle no stirrups, bit and halter. Later we added the stirrups. Learn more: Lunging a Gaited Horse
Six months of lunging and in-hand training a gaited horse paid off when I began saddle training. Pictured is my first time sitting on Marvel’s back. Learn More: Starting a Gaited Horse Under Saddle
Fun to visit with Mary and watch her and Marvel interact.
Working the walk to develop quality smooth gait.
Marvel enjoys exploring. (Thank you, Mary for taking this beautiful photo of us!)
My husband has witnessed the joy Marvel has brought the last year and realizes he doesn’t have to live on a golf course to golf (and we can push back retirement for another day)!
Starting a gaited horse under saddle began with developing a relationship of relaxation and communication from the ground up!
Sixty rides later, it’s paying off!
Starting a Gaited Horse Under Saddle
By Jennifer Klitzke
My five main points to starting a young gaited horse:
Mental and physical relaxation
Breaking training down into short learning sessions
Rewarding every good thing
Developing a relationship of trust and respect
Consistent communication: verbal cues, body cues, rewards, use of equipment
Mental and Physical Relaxation
With each horse I work with of any age, relaxation is the key. Relaxation of mind and body. A relaxed mind is a teachable mind. I help the horse focus on me and our training instead of being worried about distractions around us. A relaxed body is a trainable body and able to produce quality smooth gaits.
Most importantly, relaxation begins with me. I need to be relaxed in my mind and body in order to lead my horse into relaxation. This is helpful when working with a young untrained horse or whenever in the saddle.
Defining Relaxation and Why Relaxation is Important for the Gaited Horse
It is important to note that relaxation does not mean lazy, dull or shut down. Relaxation means the absence of tension and anxiety in both me and the horse. Horses learn best from a relaxed handler and in a relaxed state of mind. A horse’s best quality smooth gaits are produced in a posture of relaxation.
Noticing the signs of tension
Whenever the horse becomes tense, I redirect the horse’s focus, slow down or stop and regain relaxation. When a horse is tense, they often raise their head and neck, hollow their back, their whole body becomes tight, they hold their breath, they are tight lipped, their eyes grow worried, and their attention is fixed on what is causing the tension. In this state, the horse is not listening and not trainable. In a posture of tension, a gaited horse often paces, pace canters, or hard trots. These are the rough gaits we don’t want, right? That’s why relaxation of mind and body are key to training the naturally gaited horse.
2009: Here’s my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana, and me early in our training. We struggled with pace as shown above. Notice the spurs, riding two handed with low, fixed hands using a curb bit. Does my Tennessee walking horse look relaxed in the mouth, jaw and body? Tension leads to pace. Relaxation leads to smooth gait.
There are many ways I help a horse relax, such as teaching them to draw their attention back to me, lowering their head and neck to a neutral position, breathing, chewing and swallowing, and relaxing their mouth and lower jaw. Beginning this education from the ground from the lunge line or in hand builds a great foundation of relaxation with lots of rewards for every good thing.
How dressage improves quality smooth gait over time. Pictured is the same horse at the age of 19.
Keeping Training Sessions Short
With a young horse, their attention span is short, and they are easily distracted. Knowing this, I break down training into small progressive steps with ongoing reminders to draw the horse’s attention back to me any time it drifts off.
I have been working with Marvel about 20 minutes, three days in a row with one day off. During our sessions, when Marvel responds to a cue, I will immediately praise with a voice aid like, “yes, good boy,” and stop and give him a treat. I reward him for every good thing. Then we repeat an exercise a couple times with a reward in between.
Developing an ambidextrous horse
If we are working an exercise in one direction, we switch directions and do the same exercise. This is super important. Most horses are like people in that they are born right-handed or left-handed. Horses can be trained to be ambidextrous over time. Ideally, work the less developed direction twice as much as the easy direction. This will help the gaited horse develop more even strides.
Rewarding Every Good Thing
Encouragement goes a long way with people, and it does the same with horses. A young, green horse has a lot to learn. Marvel is learning a new language, so it is my job to be clear and consistent day after day.
I used body cues by bringing my energy up and down, verbal cues, “Yes, good boy,” and rewards, treats, and breaks with moments of letting the horse rest in relaxation.
Later in training, I will introduce the snaffle bit to help the horse accept contact and follow a light contact. Then when we begin saddle training, I will add leg, seat and weight aids.
After the gaited horse is no longer leaning on the bit and is tasting the bit, I invite the horse forward and out to stretch the topline and spine. Then release and reward. Learn More:Introducing a Gaited Horse to a Snaffle Bit
Introducing the gaited horse to the saddle and bridle.
Introducing the mounting block.
I used the mounting block in our sessions together to get Marvel used to me being taller than him and hearing my voice above him. Then I began laying my arm around him and placing weight on his back.
Access Physical Development
After establishing a relationship of relaxation and a consistent communication system, the next priority before saddle training begins is to access whether Marvel is physically developed to carry a rider.
During the first six months Marvel was at our place, he has grown and put on a hundred pounds. He will be four years old in June. I decided to wait until the snow and ice melted before I started Marvel under saddle. I began his saddle training in May, just a month shy of his fourth birthday.
First time in saddle
First time in the saddle
Six months of groundwork and work in hand led to saddle training with my soon to be 4-year-old naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse. For our first time in the saddle, I wanted Marvel to get a sense of my voice and weight on his back before I got off.
I used a mild snaffle bit and a bareback pad. This made it easier for me to gradually get on by adding my weight over his wither, then move my knee onto his back, then my leg and foot to the other side slowly while watching how he handled it, and then I moved into position onto his back. It sure felt great to be on his back! I sat on his back a couple minutes and quietly dismounted.
Second time in saddle with first steps
Second time in the saddle
On my second time in the saddle, I repeated the same slow process of getting on using the bareback pad. Then I asked Marvel to take his first steps with me on his back. Wobble. Wobble. Good boy! It was a short ride, only a couple minutes.
Third time in saddle moving hindquarters and shoulders
Third time in the saddle
On our third time in the saddle, I again repeated the slow process of getting on using the bareback pad and then asked Marvel to move his hindquarters and his shoulders. We doubled our time in the saddle. What a good boy!
Fourth Ride, First Time with a Saddle
Fourth time in the saddle (in a saddle)
On our fourth ride, I added the saddle now that Marvel understands the concept of me being on his back. I don’t need to get on in steps like I did with the bareback pad. Since Marvel feels like I’m riding a water balloon, it is easier to maintain stability in a saddle with stirrups.
In this fourth ride, I asked Marvel to move forward. It is clear that I need to clearly separate my connection with the bridle when I ask for forward promptings of the leg. It is confusing if I combine a light contact of the bridle with the request to move forward. By separating the rein and leg aids helps Marvel move forward much easier.
Each ride we have increased our time in the saddle over the previous ride.
First time in saddleSecond time in saddleThird time in saddleFourth time in saddleFifth time in saddleSixth time in saddleSeventh time in saddleNinth time in saddle12th time in saddle
Marvel and I riding in the large outdoor arena for the first time on our 16th ride. What a good boy!
Video: 20th Ride: Starting a Gaited Horse Under Saddle Relaxed Forwardness Between Hands & Legs
Marvel has had thirty-one rides in the last 10 weeks. Our last ride was our first time experiencing his smooth natural flat walk!
Video: 31st Ride: Starting a Gaited Horse Under Saddle First Peek at Smooth Gait
Starting a Gaited Horse Under Saddle (Ride 42) Recap of Progress
A good trail ride is in order if I can find someone to be the lead.
Jambette offers great stretching benefits for the naturally gaited horse. It teaches the horse to extend the foreleg and lift and chest and shoulder for greater mobility and range of motion.
Jambette and the Naturally Gaited Horse
By Jennifer Klitzke
The first time I saw jambette was in 2016 when my French dressage instructor was finishing up a training session with her upper-level mare. Jambette teaches the horse to extend a foreleg on cue while at a halt. It is the precursor to the Spanish walk. The Spanish Walk adds a walk step between the jambette. The jambette and Spanish walk offer great benefits for the naturally gaited horse’s shoulder mobility and chest muscle development which improve scope and range of motion.
Marvel is a three-and-a-half-year-old Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse gelding. I’ve been working with him for five months in preparation for spring saddle training.
The jambette and Spanish walk are upper-level movements I hadn’t considered teaching him at this stage. Yet combining his playful curiosity, high intelligence, and winter boredoms, Marvel had other ideas.
Jambette isn’t something I had set out to teach Marvel at three and a half, yet he told me otherwise.
How Jambette began with my Gaited Horse
In February 2022, I finished rasping the rough edges around Marvel’s front foot using the hoof stand. His front leg extended straight and forward. The next day I placed Marvel in the cross ties, and he began extending his front leg as if the hoof stand were there. The first time he did this, I thought it was rather humorous. The next day he did it again. After several days in a row, I knew his curious behavior was more than a fluke. Then Marvel began to extend the other front leg.
By golly, Marvel is teaching himself the jambette. Who am I to tell him, “No dude, the textbooks say this is an advanced movement and you need hold off a few years!”
What is my alternative? If I were to discourage Marvel, he likely would resort to pawing like Makana does. Pawing is an annoying habit which I haven’t had success curbing. So, if Marvel takes delight in an exercise that is beneficial to his body, I began putting cues to the jambette. Each time he offered a stretch with the front leg, I say,”jambette,” and touch his shoulder. Now Marvel offers jambette on cue and with each foreleg. (And I join his dance line routine, too!)
Jambette right and left legs
Then Makana, my 17-year-old naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse, began offering jambette in the cross ties, too. She must have been auditing Marvel’s shenanigans in the cross ties (or Marvel has been coaching her on the sidelines). Good thing, jambette has now replaced her years long annoying habit of pawing in the cross ties!
Jambette to Spanish Walk
The next step is to incorporate jambette with forward walk steps to develop the Spanish Walk—an exercise I have longed to teach a horse. Again, I have been in no hurry to teach the Spanish Walk, but if Marvel says otherwise, who am I to stop him.
Watch: Jambette and Spanish Walk
Marvel’s two favorite things so far: liberty and jambette with steps of Spanish Walk. Yes, naturally gaited horses are versatile, personable, talented and intelligent.
After all, my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana, taught me counted walk and piaffe. Naturally gaited horses are multi gaited horses and can learn jambette and Spanish Walk, too!
From jambette to steps of Spanish Walk with a Tennessee Walking Horse.
Do you have a tense, anxious and pacey gaited horse? You are not alone. I did too. Here’s what’s worked for me to find relaxation and break pace for a smooth gait. Find relaxation and break pace with long and low, plus these tips and videos.
Long and Low to Break Pace and Improve Smooth Gait
By Jennifer Klitzke
Have you ever asked, “How do I help my gaited horse break pace for a smooth gait?” You’re not alone. I asked this question back in 2007 when I bought my first Tennessee walking horse, Makana. She was just turning three years old with a few rides on her. I thought naturally gaited horses were born to be smooth. Yes, they are. However, I quickly learned that it was up to me to help my horse develop her smooth gaits with consistent training.
I set out to find resources for smooth gaited horse training. I purchased and studied gaited horse videos and books where I learned that many people ride their gaited horses using curb bits two handed with contact. This approach was new to me. As an avid dressage rider since 1988, I was familiar with riding two handed with contact using a gentle snaffle bit. A curb bit was only added to the snaffle bit (bradoon) at Third Level and beyond, but not used predominantly with contact.
I also attended naturally gaited horse clinics and took lessons with local instructors where I was taught to ride with low fixed hands. This was also a new concept for me. As a dressage rider, I had learned to follow the natural head and neck motion of the horse with the snaffle bit contact. I thought, “Wouldn’t it be the same for the head nodding gaited horse?”
It seems pace is a common theme among gaited horse owners—especially for those, like me, who own Tennessee walking horses.
Ingredients of pace
Pictured below, is me and my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana, early in our training. As you can see, we struggled with pace. Does she look relaxed: her expression, her body, her mouth? Notice the spurs and riding two handed with low, fixed hands using a curb bit.
Relaxation leads to smooth gait, yes. Just where do you begin to unravel the elements of this quandary and begin the journey to a relaxed smooth gait?
How to Break Pace for a Smooth Gait
Makana has had a consistent smooth gait for years now. Helping her find relaxation in her body and mind is key to break pace. This begins even before I start riding long and low.
Steps to relaxation
First of all, I stopped using equipment that cause tension. No more spurs, snug nose bands, and riding with curb bits two handed with contact. I maintained regular hoof trims at natural angles, double checked my saddle fit for comfort, and had the vet out annually to check teeth and floated as needed.
Developing a language of communication
To relax my horse’s mind, I had to become aware of what created anxiety and worry to help my horse find relaxation. Here, we embarked on a journey to develop a dialogue of harmonious two-way communication using dressage for the gaited horse.
Watch: Introducing Contact In Hand and In Saddle
I began by teaching my horse how to acceptance and follow a mild snaffle bit contact starting with work in hand. Then the same exercises from the saddle at a halt, and then at a slow walk. We only progressed tempo as long as she was relaxed in her mind and body. If she became tense or worried, we would slow down or halt until she was relaxed again.
When we progressed in tempo to a free walk on a long rein. I had to learn how to follow her natural head and neck movement with relaxed arms shoulders and hip joints.
Becoming a relaxed and confident rider
Most important, I needed to face my fears and learn how to become a relaxed and confident rider in order to convey relaxation and confidence to my horse. If my horse is nervous and I react in nervousness, it only reinforces her worry. I need to become the relaxed leader of our relationship. This takes time. For me, this has been a work in progress. Because of intentionally working at it, I am a more relaxed and confident rider, and it has paid off in my relationship with Makana.
Long and low for relaxation
Gaited horse experts talk about the importance of lowering the horse’s head and neck to aid in relaxation. Why? Because relaxation is a key component for smooth gait.
In dressage terms, a long and low dog walk with contact is referred to a free walk on a long rein. This is a required movement in all dressage tests—Introductory through Olympic Levels. The free walk on a long rein shows the rider and horse in a posture of relaxation during the test. The riding team leaves the arena at a free walk on a loose rein.
Free walk on a long rein
Long and low or free walk on a long rein is only one of many positions a horse is trained at to develop full range of motion.
In a dressage test, the free walk is graded on a scale from 0 to 10. The latter score means a perfect free walk. In a quality free walk on a long rein, the horse is shown in a state of relaxation. The horse is ridden in an approved snaffle bit and stretches forward, down, and out while taking equally timed steps with over track. This means the hind leg hoofprint steps over the fore hoofprint as it leaves the ground. The more over track the horse offers is considered a quality walk. For maximum stride length, it is important to move the horse forward without rushing in a regular rhythm and tempo.
This quality position allows the horse to stretch through the back and neck to a seeking contact with the bit. The horse’s nose is ahead of the vertical. The back is in a neutral position, and the horse’s chest is up and not collapsed. Most dressage tests show the free walk on a long rein along a straight line across the diagonal. This challenges how well the horse remains between the rider’s leg and rein aids. This symmetry is also scored.
The rider maintains a light contact with the snaffle bit and follows the horse’s natural head and neck motion with relaxed shoulders and arms. The rider also follows the horse’s side to side belly sway with relaxed hip joints and a balanced and aligned (ear, hip and heel) riding position. The rider’s relaxation aids the horse’s relaxation.
Video: Free Walk on a Long Rein
The free walk on a long rein is a terrific way to begin and end every ride, as well as reward your horse throughout a training session.
Long and Low to Steps of Smooth Gait
As my horse develops a consistent free walk on a long rein, then I begin asking her for a few steps of flat walk or smooth gait. I stop and reward my horse before my horse begins to pace or trot or feel like a rough ride. Then we return to a relaxed walk and ask for the smooth gait again.
After a few smooth steps of gait, I halt and reward my horse. Over time, a few good steps of smooth gait lead to a circle and then a few minutes of smooth gait.
Why lower is not better
I used to believe that the lower the horse’s head and neck are stretched to the ground the better. Many gaited horse experts claim this is true in order to develop a smooth gait. I gave this a try for a couple years. It helped my horse become smoother; however, my horse developed the habit of traveling on the forehand. This became a new habit that has been hard to break. Plus, being on the forehand compounded the tripping.
In hindsight, why train long and low as low as you can go when long and low at a neutral position also breaks pace?
Consider balance when training long and low to break pace
Balance is an important concept in dressage. I began to study the science of biomechanics and balance, and the importance of engaging the thoracic sling (chest and shoulder muscles) from Dr. Hilary Clayton’s research and French dressage master Philippe Karl’s book: Misconceptions of Modern Dressage.
Clayton and Karl are dressage and biomechanics experts. Their writings helped me realize the struggles I was having with my gaited horse being on the forehand and when my Trakehner/Thoroughbred were moving into Second Level. Prolonged long and low trains the horse to travel on the forehand.
Moments of long and low are good, not miles. Long and low stretching is good, but lower is not better.
Here’s why. The horse’s head and neck weigh up to one tenth of its body weight and when propelled ahead of the horse’s legs naturally places the horse on the forehand.
Adding to this, when the horse’s poll (between the ears) is lower than the height of the wither, the horse collapses the shoulder and chest muscles. Training a horse in this unbalanced position means conditioning the horse on the forehand with undeveloped chest and shoulder muscles. Then when you want to teach collection, you have to retrain your horse to develop the chest and shoulder muscles and break the habit of leaning on the bit and traveling onto the forehand.
Long and low to riding in balance is like breaking the habit of slouching with good posture. Not easy to do.
Long and low out of balance
Pictured above is my naturally gaited fox-trotting horse, Lady, in a long and low position. Notice that she is disengaged from behind (not stepping under the rider’s position with her hind leg). Notice that her chest muscles are collapsed, and her abdominal muscles are not lifting her back to a neutral position. She may be relaxed, but she is not effectively developing her top line muscles in this position. She is traveling on the forehand, and behind the bit.
Long and low in balance
Pictured above is my naturally gaited horse, Lady, in a neutral balanced position on a long rein. This is called a neck extension. She is traveling in a relaxed smooth gait and stepping more under her body than disengaging behind her tail. Can you see the difference in balanced compared with the other photo?
Watch: Action Reaction to Neck Extension
Steps to cue the neck extension
Benefits of a free walk on a long rein from a balanced position
A free walk on a long rein from a balanced position produces many terrific benefits for the gaited horse including rhythm, relaxation, forward movement without rushing, and depth of stride to increase stride length, stretching the spine, and building the top line muscles.
Most importantly, a free walk on a long rein from a balanced position puts the gaited horse into a relaxed position that helps break up the foot falls of pace into four individual steps—the sequence of a four-beat smooth gait at a slower tempo. From this quality walk, ask for a few steps of smooth gait. Stop and reward your horse. Then repeat.
How to teach the horse to lower its head
If your horse is just beginning to learn the basics with a snaffle bit and needs to start by lower its head and neck, here’s an exercise I learned from naturally gaited clinician, Bucky Sparks, which he calls “Stretch the Bit.” This exercise teaches a horse to discover relaxation by lowering its head and neck on cue at a halt. Once a horse discovers relaxation, they are more likely to seek it the next time you cue for it.
1. Begin this exercise at a halt. If the horse’s head is too high, lift your hands up and out to each side. This position touches the less sensitive corners of the horse’s lips. As I draw my arms out to the side, I feel a pull in my triceps which helps me to remember not to pull back.
IMPORTANT: Don’t pulling back or apply low fixed hands that press the bit into the horse’s tongue and causes pain. Pain causes tension in the mouth and lower jaw.
When your horse’s head is too high, position your reins up and out to each side without pulling back. Begin this exercise at a halt.
2. Release to reward: As soon as your horse begins dropping the head and neck, release the reins.
3. Repeat the exercise: Don’t get discouraged if it takes a couple minutes before the horse lowers its head or if the horse lowers and then pops its head back up. This is a common reaction when introducing something new to the horse as well as for horses who are tense or resistant. After a few tries, most horses discover relaxation and prefer it over tension and hollowness because it is more comfortable. Eventually the horse learns to remain in a lowered headset for longer periods of time.
4. Stretch and release at a walk: When the horse gets consistent with this exercise at a halt, you can begin stretching the bit at a walk on a large 20-meter circle. My horse found relaxation quicker on an arc of a circle than traveling on a straight line.
5. Add transitions and changes of direction: After a few circles, repeat the exercise traveling in the opposite direction. Switch directions every 3 or 4 circles. Then add some walk-halt-walk transitions to keep it interesting and “stretch the bit” and “release to reward” at a halt before transitioning to a walk. The transitions also help to improve the horse’s balance.
Watch: Stretch the Bit and Release and Reward
Notice that when the horse lowers, its head and neck are at the wither height.
Neck extension or free walk on a long rein is only a portion of my riding sessions as a warmup, break time and cool down.
As my horse advances in its training, I like to replace the “stretch the bit” with a more traditional dressage application I call “squeeze and release.”
How to Squeeze and Release to Lower the Head and Neck
1. Squeeze and release with the rein: On a 20-meter circle at a walk, I gently squeeze the inside rein with my fingers and hold my fingers closed until my horse gives. Then I immediately release the inside rein by opening my middle, ring and pinky fingers to reward the horse. I don’t drop the rein. I maintain a light contact with my thumb and index fingers. Each time the horse’s head pops up, I’ll repeat the “squeeze and release.”
2. Application of the inside calf after the squeeze and release: Once the horse is relaxed and understands this concept, I will touch and release my inside calf at the girth as my horse steps its inside hind leg forward. This encourages my horse to step deeper under its body with its inside hind leg. The timing of this cue is important.
Also, it is important to separate the timing of my hand and leg aids. I like to apply the leg aid after I release my hand aid. Combining my hand and leg aids is like driving a car with my foot on the break and gas pedal at the same time. This is confusing to the horse. Separating the timing of my hand and leg aids (even by milliseconds) produce clarity for my horse and leads to lightness of aids.
4. Inside leg to outside rein: Then I capture the forward energy into an ounce of contact with the outside indirect rein which I place lightly against my horse’s neck. The inside leg to outside indirect rein combined with the softening inside rein helps keep my horse in a consistent long and low frame on a 20-meter circle.
Watch: Squeeze and Release to Lower the Head and Neck
When my horse is consistent in the neutral frame (poll no lower than the height of the wither), I ask for a few deeper, more ground covering steps and more forwardness without rushing from the hind quarters to begin the free walk on a long rein.
How to improve long and low or free walk on a long rein
1. Awareness: Improving the free walk on a long rein begins by becoming aware of how the free walk feels and looks when it is moving well and when it needs improvement. Finding a riding coach who can provide timely feedback is a great way to learn this “feel.” This takes time, patience and consistent training, but the free walk offers such wonderful benefits to the horse. A balanced and engaged free walk teaches the horse to maintain a consistent relaxed tempo, maximum length and stride depth, even four-beat rhythm, and an extended head and neck position: all of which helps to develop the top line muscles.
2. Cueing deeper and longer strides: While traveling at a relaxed land neutral walk, the timing of my cue is critical. I press and release my right calf at the girth as the horse steps forward with its right hind leg (or as I feel the horse’s belly dip down on the right side). Then I apply and release my left calf as the horse steps forward with its left hind leg (or as I feel the horse’s belly dip down on the left). The application of my calf should encourage a deeper step beneath the body.
IMPORTANT: Don’t cue every step or the horse will begin to ignore the cues. I stop cueing as soon as my horse increases its depth of stride. Then I follow the motion of the belly sway with each relaxed hip joint. I don’t push my pelvis forward to drive my horse. I only follow the horse’s motion. To lengthen the stride, it is important not to use both leg aids at the same time since this shortens the stride.
If the horse ignores my calf aid, I will follow up a calf aid with a tap of a dressage whip applied to the same side I applied my calf to activate that hind leg while it is stepping forward. Timing is key.
Another way to encourage more energy and deeper strides in the free walk is to make a cluck sound as the hind leg steps forward. As soon as the horse increases the energy and depth of stride, stop the sound. If you show gaited dressage, using voice as a training aid will not be an option since the use of voice is not allowed during a test.
3. Following the movement with the seat: After cueing my horse for deeper strides, I follow my horse’s forward movement with each hip joint as each hind leg steps beneath under the belly. I become aware of the feeling of the horse’s rib cage lift on one side and lower on the other. I keep my body still from the core but not stiff, tense or locked in the joints.
IMPORTANT: Follow not drive: There is a difference between following the motion a horse produces with relaxed hip joints and driving the horse forward with the pelvis. I have found that driving a horse forward with the pelvis is annoying to the horse. It tends to create extra noise and irritation to the horse’s back. I like to teach the horse to be light to the leg and hand instead of driving the horse forward with my pelvis.
4. Circles and straight lines: I like to teach my horses the free walk on a large circle versus a straight line along the rail. This way the horse learns to listen to my aids instead of following along the rail.
Once the horse is consistent on a 20-meter circle in both directions, I will add serpentines, figure eights, and moments of straight lines. If the horse’s head pops up, gets tense, hollow and pacey, I’ll return to the arc of a circle. Over time, the horse will learn to travel in straight lines across the diagonal in a free walk on a long rein. This is a required movement in all dressage tests.
Developing straightness for symmetry
Another benefit of riding circles versus straight lines is the outer muscles are stretching, and the horse extends the outside legs more because the outside legs are traveling on a larger circle than the inside legs. All horses tend to be stiffer on one side more than the other. Circles help the horse become more evenly flexible. This symmetry is referred to as straightness. Straightness in dressage does not mean riding in straight lines, rather developing the horse to become ambidextrous which is best done in a curved position.
Remember, after the horse is in balance at a walk, then lengthen the reins and release the horse to a neutral position. Keep the horse’s poll no lower than the wither height to help preserve the horse’s balance. And ride your horse like playing an accordion with lots of transitions to develop the full range of motion for quality smooth gaits.
2021: My naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, Makana. We are riding bareback in her smooth gait, an even four-beat flat walk riding in balance and relaxation.
Dressage for the gaited horse breaks pace and teaches relaxation and balance
Today I train my gaited horses in a position of balance and relaxation from the start using dressage.
Dressage for the gaited horse develops the horse’s full range of motion and quality smooth gaits on cue for long-term soundness.
2022: Makana, my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, at 18 years old.
Dressage benefits the gaited horse:
Relaxation of the mind allows for a more teachable horse. Relaxation of the mind means less anxiety and tension. Relaxation of the mind helps build a partnership of harmony between the horse and rider to promote trust. A relaxed horse is more attentive to the rider and less focused on distractions. This reduces the risk of spooking.
Relaxation of the body allows for a more trainable horse. Relaxation of the body transforms tense muscles, a hollow posture, and pace into more flexible and maneuverable movement and smoother gaits. Relaxation of the body includes expression of the mouth, flexibility of the lower jaw and poll, stretching and flexibility of body muscles, a maneuverable posture, and lifting the chest and back. Relaxation of the body promotes smoother gaits—less pace, step pace, hard trot, and lateral canter.
Stretching the spine and building the top line muscles increase the depth of stride and the length of stride.
Developing symmetry through gymnastic exercises to help the horse become ambidextrous. These exercises promote balance, strength and flexibility traveling clockwise or counterclockwise for evenness of stride, length of stride, and depth of stride.
Lateral exercises break up the pace and step pace for more even smooth, four beat gaits.
Dressage develops the full range of motion, quality smooth gaits on cue and long-term soundness.
Our dressage program
I help my horses find balance at a halt and relaxation in the mouth, lower jaw and poll. Then instead of long and low (as low as I can go), I release to the neck extension to stretch the spine and top line muscles and flexions side to side. This stretches the neck muscles of the horse.
I do not ride my gaited horse in a free walk or neck extension the entire session. I ride my gaited horses like playing an accordion. The accordion stretches out and shortens to make high and low notes for a song. Similarly, I like to develop my horse’s full range of motion with big strides to develop the lengthening muscles and small collected steps to develop the carrying muscles.
We begin riding a free walk on a long rein to warm up and stretch the muscles. Next, we transition between lateral exercises at a slow deliberate walk with small steps (balance, strength and suppling) to a forward without rushing neck extension at a flat walk (lengthening muscles) for a couple minutes.
Our balancing exercises include the shoulder in, haunches in, shoulder out, renver, rein back, counter bend turns, counted walk, and half steps. Then we enjoy flat walk, fox trot, and/or canter exercises, and end with free walk on a loose rein as a cool down. This method makes transitions from Intro Level to Training Level to First Level to Second Level much more seamless.
Dressage with my naturally gaited horses is not only fun, but it has also created a great bond with each horse. Best of all, this method of training breaks pace and hard trot. I enjoy quality smooth gaits with all three of my naturally gaited horses.
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